Potterton Puma 80e No Hotwater

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Hello Members

I have Potterton Puma 80e boiler, it was working fine suddenly
now the Hotwater dosent fire the Boiler.
If we turn the HOTWATER tap before the boiler use to fire up.
not any more

But when the Central Heating is working, we can get the Hotwater.
to get the hotwater we have to keep the CH on.

Do you know what could be the issue.

The Bar is ok a 1 and not loosing the pressure.
when we turn the hotwater on the pressure is very low.
as soon we turn the Central heating on, we get right pressure on the HOTWATER taps

Any suggession ? is it worth to repair or get new one
I have seen in the B&Q and some Shops Basi 24H from 399.00 + someone to fit it for us ?

I need your advice on this wether worth to repair or replace .

Thanks
 
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Hi look on page 2 this problem is covered in some detail with drawings etc but it sounds like the strainer /restrictor is blocked


mick
 
Flow switch fault...You need to be checking the red light comes on the main (modulation)board when you open a hot tap.
 
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Flow switch fault...You need to be checking the red light comes on the main (modulation)board when you open a hot tap.

Correct answer 10/10. Go to top of the class!

Why do other people keep guessing the answer?

Does this help or not ????????????????????

I don't think so. :idea: :?:
 
You mean zimmers is not right with the diverter valve :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

That's where I've been going wrong. :D
 
Hello members

Thanks for your input, It seems that DV is faulty I have not got that fixed,
The RED Light Lockout comes when we turn the Boiler off from the mains and turn it on the Red Lockup comes up.

Someone came to have a look and he thinks it is DV which diverts the Hotwater and the Central Heating

I will keep posted the problem when it fixed

Thank you
 
Who said i was posting wrong answers,and sometimes people wanmt different opinions unl;ess its a obvious answer , then its a waste of time giving all types of answers, but a flow switch i would have gone with that answer as well , i wouldnt have said that you should stop giving wrong replys and that "you mean zimmer is wrong" :LOL: post, anyway i see a trend on this forum.If someone replys to a post and the next person to give his view disagrees hes told "hes 100% wrong and obviously daft "
 
Well done Mr Zimmers, Of course if we were all standing in front of the OP boiler we would have all guessed right. :D
 
OK zimmer are you familiar with this particular boiler model?...since your postings suggest otherwise.


As soon as the OP posted we had a reply indicating a blockage in the strainer/restrictor.
Now a novel water/energy saving feature of this boiler is the reduced flow from the hot taps until the DHW is up to temperature. This was clearly shown to be functioning correctly by the OP.

Next we have your suggestion it's the diverter valve.
Now 99% of faults regarding failure to fire up the boiler in DHW mode are down to the flowswitch assembly and NOT the diverter valve which is an entirely seperate item. The heating appears to function correctly.

A posting from poxi attempted to steer the OP in the right direction (ie see if the DHW demand LED on the modulation board comes on) however the OP has ignored this and called someone in.

The OP now says the lockout LED on the user control board comes on. If he is turning the boiler off immediately after a demand and then turning it back on it may well come on due to overheat conditions...not a fault. Or perhaps the flowswitch is failing (still my expected fault) and it has jammed on firing the burner with no demand.

Puma flowswitches either not indicating a demand or stuck on must be one of the most regular postings on this forum...a simple search will confirm that. On most Pumas (which by now are at least 6 or 7 years old) the diverters will be starting to play up..normally shown as poor central heating performance, but not normally stopping the burner firing up with a DHW demand.

Hopefully we will hear the outcome and solution; from the symtoms in the original posting I'm not convinced the diverter is the problem.



And whilst we are still on the subject.......

If some suggested solutions are either irrelevant, not the obvious likely fault or are clearly not warranted at the initial stage of investigation then why should other OP's not question there validity. It's in the interest of the OP both financially (ie to avoid swapping parts in good working order) and to avoid rambling threads that only add to the confusion.

Several other forums exist to offer the public advice on their central heating, many however, offer spurious advice, often dangerous advice, and ultimately do not resolve the problems. Perhaps the reason this forum solves a significant number of OPs problems is due to the quality of pro's (and other regulars) and the "self policing" of the postings. ie dangerous, misguided or irrelevant postings are "shot down". Experience is everything when it comes to repair and keeping an open mind to the solution should be a foremost attribute, therefore I will not dismiss the diverter being the culprit here but merely suggest it is unlikely.

Your initial postings were, to say the least a little confusing (and continue to be), you freely admit to charging customers whilst you "read the paper", you show little understanding of the powerflushing process, you charge a very low rate for installations (showing implications of cost cutting), you can install a combi in 1/2 a day, you are obviously highly strung from your irrational behavior towards others, you felt hard done by and felt belittled by others. I like to think this forum shows the better side of an industry beset by "cowboy" attitudes and poor quality of workmanship. Therefore you must excuse me if I reserve judgement on your character, suffice to say that so far it is not particularly high. ;)
 
Sounds like your diverter valve has gone

When I see you saying that it makes me think that you assume the diverter valve is like that in a Worcester 240 or Ravenheat 820.

The diverter in the Puma does NOT create the demand signal for DHW.

Tony
 
I dont understand why your so aggresive , a combi chsange can be done in 1/2 day and isnt to hard to do is it ,and a powerflush so you dont read a paper while thje machine is running,ok, and i dont understand them please explain to me ,all about p/f and 1.400 is ok for l/pool for a combi change
 
We see you ripping off customers by charging £250 to replace a pump whereas most of the rest of us charge reasonable amounts for the job so perhaps its not surprising when we see you demonstrating your lack of understanding of how common boilers work.

How can you do a powerflush and fit a new combi in 1/2 day if you are doing the job properly?

Why not send us some photos of some of your installations so we can see how well you are doing it?

Tony
 

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