Potterton Suprima 30 Shutting itself off - Please help!

[PGill]

Hi All,

I have read these posts with great enthusiasm. I am hoping you can help me out of a situstaion? I have a Potterton Suprima 30 which is about 8 years old. I do not class myself as a plumber/Heating Engineer by any stretch of the imagination but I am quite clued up on basic plumbing and electrical as far as DIY goes. The problem is that for no apparent reason and at no set pattern the boiler shuts down to the point where we have to reset it with the reset button. It does this on both water only and heat and water together. I thought it may be something simple that I may be able to rectify before I call out for repair. I have recently had the gate valve changed for a new one which seems to work OK when the boiler runs (Not sure if this has any bearing but thought I would add it as extra info in case you need it). I look forward to any help offered.

Many thanks in anticipation.

Paul (UK)

 

[keego]

It's usually the pcb at fault with these boilers, although it could be something simple like the ignition lead which can arc across if the insulation is in poor condition. try doing a search for suprima & you will find a multitude of problems & possible solutions.

 

[nigeld]

To reinforce Keegos suggestion-ive just replaced ignition lead on Suprima for intermittent lock out-customer rang to inform been working ok for 6 weeks(longest time for ages).The ignition lead is also flame sensing lead.

 

[kevplumb]

I have recently had the gate valve changed for a new one which seems to work OK

which gate valve where is it

 

[PGill]

The gate valve I refer to is the 3 -way valve to divert water/heating. Not sure of the correct terminology but that is the one I mean.

Incidently, I have yesterday removed the pcb after reading other posts and re-soldered all the suspect joints. Also about 5 of the tracks appeared to have very fine hailine cracks through them. However, when I metered them there was good continuity along each of them with no problems at all. If it goes again I will replace it completely as they are readily available on Ebay at a good cost (I feel someone may have come across a truck full - but who cares they are cheaper than the shops).

Many thanks for all the info.

Paul

 

[croydoncorgi]

Be careful what you wish for (or buy on Ebay!)...

Potterton have had a long history of PCB problems with this boiler and the latest version of the PCB is DIFFERENT in design by a long distance from the earlier versions. For this reason, you will need a kit including a new cable loom as well as the PCB itself. This is expensive.

Depending on the age of the boiler, you have 3 choices:

- take the big hit and get the latest PCB which SHOULD last longer the earlier ones;

- take a smaller hit and get hold of an older PCB (of which there are probably still plenty around at discounted prices);

- if the boiler is (say) less than two years old, try blagging a free upgrade out of Potty.

 

[Baxi-Remeha]

the NEW boards come with the wiring harness......retail for about 200 quid although i know somone who is selling them on ebay for 95 quid, and i can garentee they are the genuine artical........

 

[PGill]

Hi Croydoncorgi and Jasonvaghan, many thanks for your posts. I had looked at the different ones on Ebay and as I am quite sceptical of most things it would not be something I would rush in to and just buy without careful research so I fully understand where you are coming from corgi. I had checked the blurb on them it it did state that the pcb's come with all the wiring and instructions to safely carry out the easy replacement so I would be happy to go with it but I appreciate your advice on that one believe me. Jason, many thanks for the reference on the seller but can you give me an idea as to the name etc of your good source so I can get the right one should I need in if this latest fix (soldering) should fail? It has (fingers crossed) worked for 3 days now without tripping out so hopefully it will last a while longer but I am sure knowing the problems I have read about the re-solder is only a temp repair and is only prolonging the replacement anyway. If you want to email me privately with the name of the source I am at

Many thanks again to all of you for the help and advice. I also have 3 parrots and am active on discussion boards concerning those and I must say that the support from these type of boards never ceases to amaze me. It is like a warren of knowledge. Many thanks

Paul

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