Preferred positioning of Velux windows?

[seasickstevie]

Can't think why you'd 'double up' trimmers.

Why not start tiling the first few rows, then you can see where the edges are going to land. Then line up the windows accordingly.
That's what I do.

You can obviously have an equal number of tiles between the the frames.

I wouldn't take too much notice of the instructions showing them being fixed to the main timbers. You can always add some additional timber alongside the spars and noggins if necessary.

 

[hammerswinger]

Hi,
Yeah I think that's what I'll do then I can make sure I get the opening in the best place for the bottom & top tiles.

Thanks.

 

[Watshot]

Not sure if you mentioned what type of tiles you were using, but if they're plain concrete, couldn't you just use 'tile and a half's' cut to size to avoid any narrow strips at the sides?

 

[hammerswinger]

Hi,
The tiles being used are Marley Wessex, unfortunately there is no tile & a half is available, good thinking though

http://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/Roofing/Concrete-Tiles/Wessex-Interlocking-Tile.aspx

Cheers.

 

[catlad]

Hi there if you know the size of your slate.tile you can space the windows 3.4 or 5 full tiles apart as for the up and down put the frame on the roof attached to the batons as it shows in the drawings and when you work out were your batons are going you can then decide were to fix the window with rrelationship to flashings then fix your noggins trimmers and as stated before leave some room to splay the light.

...Cuts either side of a window can not allways be avoided but very small cuts can.

I assume to avoid small cuts the window would be moved to the left or right, I can't really do this as the 3 windows need to be spaced evenly over the vaulted ceiling area.

It's not the end of the World if I have to move the openings up or down a bit to avoid a cut tile below the window.

As the roof of the extension is at a pitch of about 20 degrees I don't think the light splay issue will have too much of an effect, that said if I'm moving the openings I could position the bottom trimmer so that the ceiling at the bottom of the window would end up vertical, but if the trimmer is moved away from the window what does the window sit on, the diagram in the instructions seem to show it just sitting on a roof batten ?

I was told that the rafters either side of the windows and the trimmers have to be doubled up, if the trimmers are moved away from the window do they still need to be doubled up?


Thanks to everyone for all of the advice



Cheers.

 

[redfaewishy]

I hope I can get some help. I've did the exact same with my 3 velux on my vaulted ceiling.

I have only given 10mm extra on the width although I did splaythe vertical heights. can I ask hammerswinger how did you get on with a narrow gap or did move your rafters to suit the nominal 40mm to 50mm that velux ask.

just wondering can the foam surround be trimmed? or did it compress enough ?

I appreciate this is an old post but any help would be great as I don't want to move my rafters

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

The thread is 9 years old and
hammerswinger hasn't posted anything since 2014!

 

[23vc]

Narrow gap round the sides is fine and done most of the time anyway

 

[catlad]

As long as you have a 10mm gap for expansion then you will be ok, you just won't be be able to use the extras like the bdx insulation collar. They can be thinned down with a stanley knife if you have the patience.