Pressure testing
- Thread starter Fallout
- Start date
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polyplumb say 18bar (which I think is madness)
standard is 1.5 x the working pressure. 3bar is the usual working pressure of most modern systems so 7.5bar.
We do them to 10bar on site
USE WATER NEVER EVER EVER USE AIR
standard is 1.5 x the working pressure. 3bar is the usual working pressure of most modern systems so 7.5bar.
We do them to 10bar on site
USE WATER NEVER EVER EVER USE AIR
Remember when testing plastic, the pressure can fluctuate.
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Ah, sorry my answer is for copper systems. I think it's different for plastic, check manufacturers specifications.
James.
I'd check your maths dear boy. But agreed, use water not air. Air compresses, water doesn't. Plus a drop (leak) on a water test is easier to detect.
James.
16Bar is standard on plastic systems installed in new build houses.
Though I understand 3x the working pressure is the acceptable test.
You'd be amazed at the leaks that can still appear after a 16bar test. You'd never credit a nail through a plastic pipe would stand 16bar, but it does.....
Though I understand 3x the working pressure is the acceptable test.
You'd be amazed at the leaks that can still appear after a 16bar test. You'd never credit a nail through a plastic pipe would stand 16bar, but it does.....
Nothing wrong with an air pressure test, it's quick & reliable. But for whole house tests we'd always use a hydronic water test.
Polyplumb is an "O" Ring first style of fitting that requires a higher test pressure than those that have the grip first.
The Grey Polyplumb fitting should be tested to 18 bar and also a low pressure test say .5 bar, the reason for this is:-
There is a higher insertion force required and more chance of the pipe not being inserted full socket, the pipe might not fully engage on the grip ring and could potentially blow out and cause a "Full Bore" leak.
The low pressure test would show any small weeps when the fittings are "Relaxed" such as a bit of swarf or a score in the pipe under the "O" ring.
The fittings that have the "Grip" first generally need testing to 1.5 times the maximum working pressure.
Always make sure any taps, shower valves etc are ok with these pressures otherwise you will need to isolate them.
Whatever people may say on here, Always use a water test, never air.
With air if you have a small weep it will be much more difficult to locate than with water.
Also and more importantly Air can be compressed and if a fitting blows off under compressed air it would be like an air gun going off and potentially very dangerous
The Grey Polyplumb fitting should be tested to 18 bar and also a low pressure test say .5 bar, the reason for this is:-
There is a higher insertion force required and more chance of the pipe not being inserted full socket, the pipe might not fully engage on the grip ring and could potentially blow out and cause a "Full Bore" leak.
The low pressure test would show any small weeps when the fittings are "Relaxed" such as a bit of swarf or a score in the pipe under the "O" ring.
The fittings that have the "Grip" first generally need testing to 1.5 times the maximum working pressure.
Always make sure any taps, shower valves etc are ok with these pressures otherwise you will need to isolate them.
Whatever people may say on here, Always use a water test, never air.
With air if you have a small weep it will be much more difficult to locate than with water.
Also and more importantly Air can be compressed and if a fitting blows off under compressed air it would be like an air gun going off and potentially very dangerous
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