Process for building control to sign of electrical work when doing notifiable electrical work yourself?

[ericmark]

RCD/RCBO tests should be done on the breaker it's self with the downstream load/s disconnected to ensure you are not testing with existing earth leakage, and test at 1/2 rating first to ensure it is not tripping prematurely.

I use the clamp-on to measure existing earth leakage, turning off loads yes, but the strain on the terminals can affect the operation of some models, so one should not disconnect at the RCD/RCBO to test, as need to know it will work once terminals are torqued up.

Using the ramp test, if available, does show how much to spare. We used to do 6 tests, but that has been reduced, I am not sure why? I still tend to do positive and negative half cycles.

But I blame poor testing on the forms, if the form does not ask for line - neutral loop impedance or prospective short circuit current then people will not test it, so we have no idea of the volt drop of the circuit.

The test what needs the most attention is that when testing ring final circuits and making sure you are aware you can have "rings" within "rings", by what I mean is sections of the ring final circuit bridged together.

I was taught to test for figure of 8, but I can not find a regulation which says you can't have it. But after being qualified, and had already done as then 16th edition and PAT testing, the C&G 2391 was a further 12 weeks one night a week of 3 hours, so 36 hours of training as to how to inspect and test.

And I failed the installation due to increase of loop impedance was too high for such a short run, and investigated further and found resistors soldered into the wires to emulate a larger installation, however I pointed out had the sockets been used, there would have likely been a fire, so was a valid fail, which left him with a problem, what to do with those who had not found the resistors.

Much of the testing is down to what one expects to find, and can't really teach that.

But the LABC inspector has to judge if the person doing the work has the skill required, and he needs to watch his own back, so what he wants is written proof the person has the skill, and a C&G 2391 goes a long way towards that.

 

[eveares]

Got quote back from Liverpool building control on how much it would be for them to inspect and sign off any works....£1052!

A whopping £702 to submit the full plans to them, another £500 for them to inspect & sign of the electrical work, - £150 if I can provide my own complaint test certificate, which equals £1052.

It's even more expensive at £1106 if I go down the route of building notice with no plans.

That's a bloody rip off imo!

 

[Taylortwocities]

Please understand that going the DIY route is a path that the LABC do not want you to take. It’s a hassle for them and soaks up a lot of limited resource. I suppose that the huge cost is to suggest to you to take a different route.
If you use a registered electrician then the LABCs involvement is 0.001% as all they know is an electronic notification from NICEIC, etc.

 

[eveares]

Please understand that going the DIY route is a path that the LABC do not want you to take. It’s a hassle for them and soaks up a lot of limited resource. I suppose that the huge cost is to suggest to you to take a different route.
If you use a registered electrician then the LABCs involvement is 0.001% as all they know is an electronic notification from NICEIC, etc.

Yea following those prices, I am likely going to try and find a local electrician who is a member of a 3rd party certification scheme and willing to inspect and sign off my work.

The whole point of me doing it myself was to:

A) Save money and not pay far more than the material costs.

B) To do things how I want, like neutral at all light switches, deep back boxes at light switches to accommodate Z-wave modules, placement of sockets including BS 546 sockets, separate 16A circuit for my data cabinet, choice of brands, etc...

C) To do the Band 1 SELV stuff at the same time like several Ethernet and Aerial sockets in places throughout.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yea following those prices, I am likely going to try and find a local electrician who is a member of a 3rd party certification scheme and willing to inspect and sign off my work.

I believe that NAPIT are the only CPS who allows certain members to offer a 3rd party certification service. Very few of their electricians have taken up this offereing. Note that even under the 3rd party scheme you cannot do the work and then get the spark along to "sign it off". You must engage the 3rd party spark before work starts and he/she will want to make several visits to approve the design and your installation methods and later to test, certify and notify the work. (Much as LABC would do for their £1106).

 

[eveares]

Note that even under the 3rd party scheme you cannot do the work and then get the spark along to "sign it off".

I know of course one would have to inspect it at various stages and would have to be involved before you started any work.

Obviously it would be no good if you had already put floorboards back down and had filled in chases in the walls, covering up how the cable was run and making sure it complied to things like spacing of cable supports, installation reference methods, separation of band 1 and band 2 conductors, etc...

 

[morqthana]

To do things how I want, like neutral at all light switches, deep back boxes at light switches to accommodate Z-wave modules, placement of sockets including BS 546 sockets, separate 16A circuit for my data cabinet, choice of brands, etc...

I had an extension and modifications done a couple of years ago, and specced things like that. Just put it in writing and check it's done.

 

[eveares]

I had an extension and modifications done a couple of years ago, and specced things like that. Just put it in writing and check it's done.

I just fear that whilst I could get all the parts myself for say for £2500-3000 inc vat, yet I would have to pat another £1000-2000 on top of this for someone’s labour, which I have not really got the money for.

 

[morqthana]

So let's say I bought a old house that needed a full re-wire for example and I wanted to do the re-wire all myself (obviously complying to BS7671), what is the process regarding involving the local councils building control when doing notifiable electrical work under Part P.

I assume you need to notify them before you start anything, and they will want to expect it at several stages along the way, but I’m not 100% sure how it works in practice?

What happens if you don't tell them about it?

Yes, I still have and use a turntable.

I've got 2. Plan to sell them both and buy 1.

 

[jono_h]

I am not surprised at the extra charges then. I do question people who attempt electrical works without the tools of the trade. I have found complete loss of earth in the past, and no sign of where it had ever been.

And I’m happy to pay the extra charges. I’d have paid considerably more to have the work done by a registered Electrician.

I don’t understand the point about not having the tools of the trade? That’s why I’m paying the fee - for an Electrician to do the bits that I can’t, with the tools I don’t have, to satisfy Building Control (& me) that everything is safe.