protecting a new door

well i have gone from no replies at the first day or two to answers of this quality.
im very fortunate and would just like to buy you all a virtual pint
cheers guys

Cheers ~Terence :D

We here that are painters and decorators, are notoriously slow at catching on to any kind of new products. In this instance, I'm talking water based varnish.
I didn't used to use it but I could see the DIYers around mel, using it with excellent results.
Used it a few times, then did a load of interior hardwood doors with yet again, excellent results which were a surprise to me because I'd long been brought up and used oil varnish in Churches, Cathedrals, shops etc.

I was doing a big house last year and they'd had the doors stripped so he asked me what's best.. I showed him the difference on one of his doors, the difference between water and oil based. Briefly, oil based brings out more of the colour and stays that way.
Next time I go to do another room, he's finished the doors (teacher) and I was a bit surprised at the super job he'd made and the way the satin looked. I thought it was oil varnish he'd used but he said he'd used water based and it was easy...it is. Smooth as a billiard table.

Now I use it regulaarly which is why I recommended you do as..
1- You're a self confessed DIYer with no experience.
2- You don't want it staining till a later date, so it can't be stained now.
3- You just want it protected for now.

You can bet that some "so called" painters and decorators have never used it on hardwood doors................... I have.

Don't forget to take the door off and do the underneath first. It'll also be a good test patch for you to start with. ;) .. and don't dent or mark it when taking it off and re-hanging.

Your choice Tenence. :)
 
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We here (hear?) that are painters and decorators, are notoriously slow at catching on to any kind of new products. In this instance, I'm talking water based varnish.

You can bet that some "so called" painters and decorators have never used it on hardwood doors................... I have.

Could you expound on what you mean by a "so called" painters?

The OP asked for advice- you recommended waterbased, I attempted to to provide a counter view, highlighting the caveats.

There is innovation for the sake of improvement and then there is change motivated by enviromnetal considerations. The curent trend in paint is driven by the latter and not the former.

Since the VOC edict of 2010, traditional oil based paints have become vastly inferior, water based paints have remained largely static. Unfortunately technology has not kept pace with legislation.

Like it or not, water causes wood to expand. That statement is irrefutable. The degree to which it does so is debatable, as is the ease with which products based upon it can be sanded.

Over the years i have invested thousands of pounds in very efficient and expensive German sanders. Post curing, solvent based paints are always easier to sand than WB. Laytex based products will always have the propensity to overheat and "gum up". Perhaps it is the case that that anyone that only carries two rolls of (rough and smooth) aluminiuium oxide will be oblivious to that.

"Oil" based products create minimal swelling. One may find that the fibres are suspended at inconvenient angles, and give the impression of swelling but it is not swollen (whereas the viscosity of WB may "glue" them down).

Perhaps the OP will be better off with WB rather than OB, all things considered. It does not however follow that anyone that dares to suggest that WB products are inferior to OB is a luddite. I work with both but because I strive toward (the unobtainable goal of) perfection I am willing to try new products and then cricise them accordingly.

With respect to the OP's door- the ultimate finish would be acid cat spray, lots of thin coats and copious sanding between . The end result would be a high build mirror-like finish, something approaching french polishing but with out the downsides.

Oh hang on- Acid cat has nasty solvents and (pretty evil) ingredients such as isocyanates, yet, erm it remains to be the highest quality finish available. As a "so called painter" I use it from time to time but cannot recommend it to diyers because of the potential health risks and cost of use

No grain swelling properties either...

Mind you, if one is happy with an "okay" finish than follow the path of least resistance...
 
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