Pull Cord switch with 3 live & 3 earth wires

[NoClueDY2]

Hi all, I am new to this site and DIY in general to be honest.

My ceiling light switch stopped working the other day and I purchased a replacement to sort it out. When unscrewing the old one it fell apart in a wonderful display of springs and screws so I was unable to work out how it was configured.

In the ceiling there are three live wires and three bare uninsulated wires which I presume are the earth. I have tried a few ways of connecting them but have been unable to fix the problem. Best I have had is where the light in the bathroom comes on but the bedroom lights do not, I have also had it where the bathroom light is consistently on and will not turn off.

The pull switch I have has an L1, an L2 and a COM, it also has a screw hole terminal for the earth at the top of the light. It has been difficult to put more than one wire in the terminal.

If anyone can let me know what I am doing wrong and which wires should go where then I would be most grateful. I can take pictures and upload them if you would like some visual aid.

Thanks Guys,

Mark

 

[Jackrae]

How come you have only 3 'live" wires if you have 3 earth wires. This suggests at least 3 cable pairs viz 3 red and 3 black or 3 brown and 3 blue. So provide full details of what you actually have and a photograph or two

 

[RF Lighting]

It sounds like double insulated singles with earth.

You need all the earths connected together in the earth terminal. It might be a bit tricky, but I've never know a pull switch which isn't designed to accept at least 3 wires.

Then connect two of the reds to the common terminal, and the remaining red to the L1 terminal.

Put the power back on.

You will find that:

a) the switch turns the bathroom light on and off, and the bedroom works as it should.

b) the switch turns on both the bathroom and bedroom lights

c) the bathroom stays on all the time, and the switch turns the bedroom on and off.

Let us know which one happens to you.

 

[NoClueDY2]

http://i39.tinypic.com/2qjy4w3.jpg

^^ Picture of the wires.

I put three earths in the top, I put two reds in COM and one red in L1.

The light is continually on in the bathroom and the other lights do not switch on at all.

Does it matter which red goes where? It worked before so I am confident everything is there, it's just a matter of wiring it up correctly!

Thanks for your assistance,

Mark

 

[bernardgreen]

Does it matter which red goes where?

YES it does

One red is the supply from the fuse box
One red is the supply to the lights that do not work when the wires are as in your picture.

Those two need to go to the same terminal in the switch. COM

The kast red wire is the switched live ( switched by the switch you are fitting ) to the lamp the switch controls. That needs to go to L1 on the switch.

Turn main switch in fuse box OFF Use a terminal block to join any two red wires. Leave the third wire un-connected but insulated as it may become live. Turn the main switch ON

If no lights work then the third wire is the supply from fuse box.

If the lamp in the room comes on then and some other lamps do not work then the third wire is the supply to those other lamps.


If the other lamps work and the one in the room does not work then the third wire is the switched live to the lamp in the room.

 

[NoClueDY2]

All working as it should now!

RF Lighting & bernardgreen thanks for your informative posts.

Mark

 

[ban-all-sheds]

a) the switch turns the bathroom light on and off, and the bedroom works as it should.

b) the switch turns on both the bathroom and bedroom lights

c) the bathroom stays on all the time, and the switch turns the bedroom on and off.

Let us know which one happens to you.

Ah - wiring by trial and error.

Excellent idea.









Not.

 

[RF Lighting]

It worked didn't it?

Nothing unsafe took pace.

Have you forgotten this is a DIY website?

 

[Ahtyrrell]

Ah - wiring by trial and error.

Excellent idea.

Not.

Trial and improvement

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It worked didn't it?

Ah - is that also your attitude to testing? If it works it must be OK?

Nothing unsafe took pace.

Your advice took place - trying thing to see what happens is unsafe.

Have you forgotten this is a DIY website?

Have you forgotten that there is no exemption from the laws of physics for ignorance and incompetence, and that, unlike with painting, joinery, plastering etc etc etc working to low standards with electrical installations is completely unacceptable?

 

[bernardgreen]

Trial and errror using 230 volt lamps as continuity indication is not the best method but it does work when adequate care and attention is part of the process.

Using a test meter as continuity indication is safer than using a 230 volt lamp but the same trial and error processes are involved.

 

[bernardgreen]

Your advice took place - trying thing to see what happens is unsafe.

Obviously trying things and seeng if the needle swings or the digits show a low value of resistance is safer. But with due care using a lamp as an indicator can be as safe as using a low voltage test meter.

That said testing with a meter and the main switch OFF is by far the safest way. ( until one falls off the step ladder in the dark )