Pump Stays On!

namsag said:
I would suggest your time is better spent finding out how the job is done properly than playing on the internet.
Your customers who pay you good hard earned money will then get the service they are paying for..And not the second rate bodge one you appear to be giving

With over 1600 posts your making a better job of playing around on the internet than I am. :rolleyes:
 
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Showing your limited intelligence again Balenza . That is in the last 3 and a half years and average out at 1.37 a day... You on the otherhand are at an average of 3.43 . So who is it that is playing on the net the most... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
namsag said:
Showing your limited intelligence again Balenza . That is in the last 3 and a half years and average out at 1.37 a day... You on the otherhand are at an average of 3.43 . So who is it that is playing on the net the most... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Then you would be better of sticking to playing around on the net as you clearly haven't a clue about heating system wiring. :rolleyes:
 
You can`t count you cant wire and you cant put a constructive arguement together... I hope you can write because after you have been on rogue traders i would not mind your autograph... You better turn the light off now before mummy catches you staying up late..
 
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namsag wrote


arguement

Having trouble with our spelling now are we ?
You stick to ripping your customers off by fitting unnecessary motorized heads. How much do you charge anyway ??.
 
What you mean for correctly fixing the problem and not carrying out a rough repair as you do.. Have you never heard of splitting the micro switch and freeing and cleaning the contacts inside . So no head would be required.. Repair for this would be exactly what parts if needed cost me and as it is a piece of pi#s job that would take no time at all prob around £35 labour.
 
namsag said:
What you mean for correctly fixing the problem and not carrying out a rough repair as you do.. Have you never heard of splitting the micro switch and freeing and cleaning the contacts inside . So no head would be required.. Repair for this would be exactly what parts if needed cost me and as it is a piece of pi#s job that would take no time at all prob around £35 labour.

Yep and a few months down the line it all fails again.
£35 labour. A rip off.
You wouldn't get near my place.
 
I Don`t work in adult training centres so there would be no way i would come to your place.

Bellend you can probably do the job cheaper because a horse and a bit of hay is far cheaper than a van and diesel.
 
namsag wrote

I Don`t work in adult training centres

Perhaps not but your brainwashed none the less.
Try and understand that the microswitch is not the only way of energising a heating system.
 
From an electrical point of view isn't the microswitch there for a reason?
Does it not keep the central heating and hot water separate, i.e. if only one is called for then the corresponding valve opens and the microswitch is used to call the boiler and pump?
If you bridged the central heating one so the c/h controller called for the pump, valve and boiler then when you just called for hot water, wouldn't you end up feeding back via the bridge in the circuit and open the valve for the central heating too?
Same vice versa but probably wouldn't matter as much?
I'll get my head around central heating wiring systems one day!!
 
Yes.
And altering wires like that is a botch too far. The next guy won't have a clue what you've done.
Do the job properly.
New valve (we don't stock heads alone, sir) £70 (rrp)
Callout £70
 
Wow, that was some discussion :eek:

I am a total amateur at this and have therefore taken the only sensible option and ordered a new motorised valve head - delivery expected today.

Really grateful for the advice that everyone gave on this; it's much appreciated.

I'll let you know how I get on.
 
I promised to post how I got on...

Having replaced my Sunvic SZ2301F actuator with a Sunvic SZ2301 actuator, everything is now working as it should do!

See my other thread about the difference between the 2 actuators!

SF2301/F

I can't believe how accurate Dave (gas4you) was with his diagnosis of the problem; he was absolutely spot-on. The microswitch had indeed stuck on - the casing of the microswitch had even started to degrade due to the heat.

A big thanks to Dave. His confident replies gave me the confidence to have a go at fixing the problem.
 

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