Punto sump pan gasket

[DIYspanner]

2002 reg 1.2 8V

Old pan is rotten so need to fit a new one.

Have been told by a local factors just to use gasket sealant when fitting the new pan.

Anyone had success with gasket sealant with this application ?


Funny thing about the pan is the holes can be either 8mm of 10mm. I took one bolt out with a 10mm socket and it has a 5.5mm thread shank so I doubt it has 10mm holes.

 

[Burnerman]

Sump gaskets are really a thing of the past....use the genuine sealant from Wurth or similar which is available from motor factors.
10mm spanner = 6mm nut or bolt.
John

 

[DIYspanner]

Thanks Burnerman. I'll get some high temp silicon sealant.

By the way, anyone looking for a sump pan, rather than go to the local breakers yards (who were going to charge me £30 for a pan), have a look on ebay.

Here's one seller

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_o...0.A0.H0.Xsump+pan.TRS0&_nkw=sump+pan&_sacat=0

 

[Peter.N.]

I have successfully used silicon sealant. If you apply it to a well cleaned sump and leave it overnight to set it forms a very effective gasket which compresses when you fit the sump.

Peter

 

[Dave54]

I have successfully used silicon sealant. If you apply it to a well cleaned sump and leave it overnight to set it forms a very effective gasket which compresses when you fit the sump.

Peter

I remember buying some Loctite RTV instant gasket back in the early 70s. Now it's a long time ago, but IIRC the instructions said to put the stuff on one face, assemble the parts loosely by not fully tightening the screws, leaving a gap between the mating faces which the goo would fill, and then tighten finally after it had gone off.
I used it that way to successfully make a gasket for the pressed steel primary chaincase on the motorbike I had then, and have used the same method several times on those type of chaincases. Those cases held oil for the chain, and the original equipment was a cork gasket, with the outer cover being held on by a myriad of cheese head screws, which had almost always been overtightened in an attempt to cure a leak, making it worse as the case distorted.
Anyway the point being that I'd wondered about doing it that way Peter, as it takes the "guess" out of leaving a gap.

 

[Burnerman]

Ha - the joys of pre -unit construction engines and gearboxes! The designs were so hopeless there was no chance of a seal - the cast aluminium cases were slightly better but leaked where the gearbox input shaft was, as the gearbox was hinged to get the chain tension needed.
Just back to the original topic......the proper sump sealant is a high temperature (presumably silicone) product - ridiculously expensive from a main dealer but reasonable from a motor factors. I believe it has intumescent properties but I can't qualify that.
John

 

[Peter.N.]

One of the advantages of this method is that if the gap is not even all round you can put a thick bead of silicon round the edge and it will fill all the gaps in, the surplus with either fall off inside or outside the engine, although it usually stays adhered to the remaining sealant. Once its set its just like fitting a thick rubber gasket.

Peter

 

[Dave54]

Ha - the joys of pre -unit construction engines and gearboxes! The designs were so hopeless there was no chance of a seal - the cast aluminium cases were slightly better but leaked where the gearbox input shaft was, as the gearbox was hinged to get the chain tension needed.
Just back to the original topic......the proper sump sealant is a high temperature (presumably silicone) product - ridiculously expensive from a main dealer but reasonable from a motor factors. I believe it has intumescent properties but I can't qualify that.
John

Yes, all those cases leaked from the gearbox shaft. The BSA had a sort of sliding tin lid arrangement to try to allow for movement, with (IIRC) a felt seal. So mine used to leave the odd couple of polite drips of oil where it had been parked, just to say it had been there!
If modern vehicles of any type leave oil behind, I assume there is something amiss.

 

[Burnerman]

That's why our sump pans rot out, Dave!
My old British twins leaked like the Exxon Valdez, erupting the tarmac for miles around
John

 

[Dave54]

That's why our sump pans rot out, Dave!
My old British twins leaked like the Exxon Valdez, erupting the tarmac for miles around
John

Indeed. I used to work at a plant that had a terne coating line. lead and tin on steel strip. I know it used to get used for Petrol tanks. I think it used to be used for sumps as well by some car makers.
Of course there seems to be little interest by makers in what's going to happen to any part of a car after the warranty is up!

 

[DIYspanner]

This sealant should do the job of sealing a sump pan I think -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vitcas-Hi...741557?hash=item1e76e50d75:g:rvgAAOxylpNTTOtC

 

[Burnerman]

Yep, that will do nicely.
John

 

[Avocet]

That's why our sump pans rot out, Dave!
My old British twins leaked like the Exxon Valdez, erupting the tarmac for miles around
John

Indeed. I used to work at a plant that had a terne coating line. lead and tin on steel strip. I know it used to get used for Petrol tanks. I think it used to be used for sumps as well by some car makers.
Of course there seems to be little interest by makers in what's going to happen to any part of a car after the warranty is up!

They're not allowed to use lead these days, but almost all have gone over the plastic tanks, which are just better in every way really.

 

[DIYspanner]

Has anyone had a problem using silicone sealant for sealing a sump pan ?

I cam across a posting on a Fiat cars forum and the poster says not to use sealant because they'd had three attempts and it still leaked !

I would have thought if mating surfaces on thoroughly cleaned and the sealant is properly applied, it should work !

 

[Burnerman]

I guess it depends on the modulus of the sealant......low modulus means it can move like hell, high modulus means less ability to move but greater stability.
It would be high modulus stuff for me, on a non distorted sump of course!
I would go for the approved type.
John