Putting copper pipework inside a stud partition

[Flinstone]

Hi

I'm renovating a small upstairs bedroom and replacing the old lath & plaster with plasterboard. In the corner of the room are 2x22mm CH and 1x15mm copper pipes which were previously boxed in.

Due to the room being small I'd like to hide the three pipes in the stud partition.

Does anyone have any advice for drilling thru' the header & footer timbers (4x2")? Presumably 2x 25mm and 1x 18mm holes rather than one long slot?

There's lots of info on putting holes/notches in joists for laying pipework horizontally but I can't find any for doing in opposite direction.. follow the same advice?

Thanks

 

[Madrab]

Anything that is non load bearing then fire away, a stud partition takes its strength from the uprights, crosspieces and then the gyproc, once attached, both as a whole and the individual rectangles. As long as the stud work is secure then you can happily cut a slot out of the top and bottom pieces to fit the pipework.

 

[SandyLyon]

Just a thought Plastic pipe might be better in the stud wall.

Easier to thread through the horizontal spreaders
No joints to worry about within the stud
Generally quieter than copper during expansion and contraction if touching timber
Can convert to / from copper above and below stud wall easily.

 

[Jackrae]

Just remember where the pipes are when you nail on the plasterboard. Better still take a photograph once pipes are in and before you fit the plasterboard - it's amazing what you fail to remember about 10 seconds after the pipes are invisible.

 

[dilalio]

Use plastic and keep the holes in the centre of the noggins and plates, then you know your safe to use 25-30mm gyprocs on the plaster board. Add timber grounds/battens at 1/3 and 2/3rds height from floor with pipe clips screwed to them so that you can clip the pipes to reduce pressure knocks and rattle.

 

[SandyLyon]

You can get self adhesive metal tape that can be detected with a metal detector.

Personally I would stick the tape to the inside of the plasterboard rather than onto the plastic pipe just in case the adhesive reacts with the plastic (possibly softens or absorbs it into any drinking water)

If you do stick it to the pipe make sure it is suitable for plastic and WRAS approved if on potable water.

 

[Flinstone]

Thanks all for your very useful and informative replies. Slight misnomer on my part in that they aren't CH pipes but flow & return between a boiler in the kitchen and a HW tank in the loft. Hopefully the advice given still applies!

I've not used plastic in anger before. Will the new joints made between ithe plastic and existing copper be just as reliable as a soldered joint?

Any particular brand of plastic I should go for in 22 & 15? I have some Speedfit 15x1.5 BS7291-3:2006 3bar 92°C from several years ago, never used, and pipe cutters. There are markings on the pipe ">|<" every 25-30mm??

Thanks again.

 

[dilalio]

I would use Hep20 pipe and fittings and not put any joins where you can't get at them at a later date, without great upheaval!

http://promotions.wavin.com/uk/hep2o?gclid=CKO504Hb4cwCFYEy0wodCV0Pxg#freesample

 

[SandyLyon]

+1 for Hep2o, you can get 3mtr pre cut straight lengths if that's long enough to give you enough pipe below and above to make your connections. Otherwise you may be able to get 6mtr or coils.

As for connecting to / from copper you can use Hep2o elbows (plastic pipe with support sleeve in one socket, and copper into the other) use pipeslice / roller cutter on copper tube and mark the insertion depth on the pipe with a pencil.

Or

Compression fittings, use support sleeve in plastic tube, copper olive rather than brass and PTFE tape if required, don't use jointing paste on the plastic side.

Just checking that the Primary F & R pipes are from a gas boiler and not a solid fuel back boiler

 

[Flinstone]

Exelent thanks for that guys. Yes pipework to & from a gas boiler. Pipes run along length of room under the floorboards before travelling up the wall, so 2-3m run before it will turn into plastic. 3m lengths on a 50yr guarantee sounds pretty good! Will be ideal for putting in the 2.4m wall.

Thank you for the superb support on this forum!

Regards

 

[Madrab]

Hep would be the pipe of choice for the 22mm HW flow and return, as the others have mentioned.

The 15mm JG Speedfit you have will be fine to use for the 15mm copper. The pipe markings on the pipe are so you can cut at the mark and fit the pipe into a fitting up to the next >l< mark, it gives visual confirmation that the pipe is fully engaged. As with any plastic pipe, always use its own make of fittings and inserts.

 

[dilalio]

Exelent thanks for that guys. Yes pipework to & from a gas boiler. Pipes run along length of room under the floorboards before travelling up the wall, so 2-3m run before it will turn into plastic. 3m lengths on a 50yr guarantee sounds pretty good! Will be ideal for putting in the 2.4m wall.

Thank you for the superb support on this forum!

Regards

There are raised rings on the outer body of the Hep20 fittings that show you how far into the fittings the pipe (with insert) should go... You can offer the end of the pipe up to this line and make a mark back along its length - you should then just be able to see this mark when pipe is fully home!

Also, don't forget to pick up the pipe removal tools for these fittings (purple colour for 22mm and blue for 15mm) as you won't be able to remove a fitting without one!