Putting double socket on cooker ring (30amp 6mm cable)

[Emtoucan]

Hi, I'm replacing my gas cooker with a seperate single electric oven and gas hob.

The single oven is less than 3kw and can be installed in a 13amp socket as can the hob.

My old cooker was wired directly into a FCU on the main ring.

The question I have is;

There is a dedicated cooker ring at 30amp that is not being used (I found it buried beneath the tiles and taped up). Can I use this for the oven and hob by adding a double socket to it? The wire looks to be 6mm cable. As I'm not technically adding a new ring/socket etc, would this be exempt from Part P?

Thanks

 

[Taylortwocities]

You could put a twin 13A socket on there assuming the 6mm circuit is still in use and tests out OK.
I would carry out full continuity and insulation tests first.

Also assuming the circuit hasnt been diverted elsewhere! Is it still connected to your fuseboard?

This is subject to Part P as it is electrical work in a kitchen. You could look on it as a repair, however

 

[Emtoucan]

The cooker has it's own fusebox under the stairs, seperate from the CU. It's definately not being used for anything else.

Regarding the test though, this would need to be carried out by a qualified electrician?

 

[electronicsuk]

You could put a twin 13A socket on there assuming the 6mm circuit is still in use and tests out OK.
I would carry out full continuity and insulation tests first.

I'd advise against this. Both your oven and hob are high current devices, and when both turned on you could be potentially drawing 26A through the double socket. As a double S/O is not designed to carry more than 13A continuously this presents quite a serious fire risk. You would be better considering two single 13A outlets or FCUs.

EDITl: OK, my bad, it's only electric ignition for a gas hob. Ignore me!

 

[Emtoucan]

I've just checked it and it doesn't work. The cables running from the fusebox have been cut.

My only option now is to run everything from the main ring in the kitchen.

 

[Pensdown]

If the cooker cable is still connected to the "fuse box" make sure the cooker fuse box is off and cannot be turned back on as you could end up with a live cable floating around.

You then need to remove the cut cable from the fuse box.

 

[Emtoucan]

I should probably explain it better. The cables supplying the cooker fusebox has been removed not the cables coming from the fusebox.

I'm just concerned that running a single oven, dishwasher, and washing machine off the same ring is pushing it a bit.

It only takes a cup of tea to go over the limit.

My oven says nominal power 3.0kw, the dishwasher 2.2kw and the washing machine 2.6kw.

 

[mdbalson]

Get the cooker fusebox reconnected, & then you should be able to reuse the cooker cable.

 

[Emtoucan]

Would that be something that's easy for me to do? I wouldn't have thought so as the cables that supply it come from the plugs before the consumer unit.

The cooker 'fusebox' looks like something from the 1950's/60's. It's a grey metallic box, with "Bill" writen on it.

My concern would be that an electrician would insist on replacing the consumer unit etc and wiring in the kitchen so that it's fully Part P legit.

With the cost of the kitchen and it being Christmas, I don't think I could afford it and I was planning on installing the units tomorrow.

 

[Adam_151]

Can we have a picture?

From what I gather so far, a DB replacement would be a very good idea, but its possible RCD protection could be added separately

Actually considering its a 1way unit, replacing it on its own shouldn't really make the job any harder than it would be anyway...

But if its 50's/60's I'd be concerned about the quality of the insulation (and fwiw it won't be 6mm² if then, it'll be the imperieal equivelent)

Be careful round a 50s/60s fuseboard, hazards such as lack of barriers compared to more modern boards, presence of abestos flash pads and degraded materials mighy be present!

 

[Emtoucan]

OK 50's or 60's maybe a little over the top but it certainly looks old to me.

Cooker 'fusebox' (what is this actually called?)

Incoming power cables

Consumer Unit

 

[Steve]

Is it me, or are there no incoming cables to that BILL switch? Does it work? Turn it off, what happens?

I believe the term is switchfuse.

Also the main fuse box appears to have the wrong cover on it or something - I can see SI cores inside.

 

[Adam_151]

Looks like the supply to that cooker fuseboard has been removed

(and yes, consumer unit/ db/fuseboard are acceptable terms)

Looks like those outgoing cables from meter to service connector blocks are a bit manky and need renewing

You have a spare way in the main DB though? that one currently fitted with a 15A breaker?

Looks like for now you should get away with having the circuit run from there, along with a bonding upgrade (probably), as long as the circuit tests out ok, etc

Oh and forget any reference to RCDs I made in relation to this circuit, I got it into my head that we were talking about a circuit for above counter outlets , howver it would be a good idea to have RCD protection fitted for ground floor socket outlet circuits

 

[Emtoucan]

Yeah the Bill switch doesn't work anymore, the cable going into it have be cut and removed. Therefore there is no cooker ring in the kitchen.

I was planning on using it to power a double switch for the oven and hob ignition (the original question).

 

[RF Lighting]

It does look a bit short of tails

probably redundant.

The cooker supply you have found doesn't appear to be fed from your wylex CU either.

Do you know how to test to see if the cable is live?