Putting up kitchen units and corners

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I know it's better to use the long brackets for the units to go on to but if these two small ones aren't taking the hooks from unit very well, is it worth taking them down and bending them out with pliers so the hook catches better?

Also, we're struggling to get the corners lined up perfectly so the cover bit runs perfectly from corner to corner, any ideas?
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I know it's better to use the long brackets for the units to go on to but if these two small ones aren't taking the hooks from unit very well, is it worth taking them down and bending them out with pliers so the hook catches better?

have you extended the hooks?
 
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A long strip will be stronger because you can use more screws; and if one screw happens to hit a mortar joint or other weak point, there are plenty to hold it. you can also edge the cabs from side to side if the corner doesn't quite line up or if the wall is not plumb.

You don't have to cut the strips to fit the cabinet, you can cut a small notch in the side of the cab, it will be invisible except (sometimes) on the end of a run if you can see the side. Even then it is well tucked away to the wall.
 
F30FBF32-07E1-4BA8-8E5F-00426B7F9838.jpeg As said, there should be two brackets, one in each of the corners, and the hangers have a range of adjust ment in, out and up and down.
 
When you put the hooks over the brackets on the wall, do you then tighten them once you've git a strong hold? Then adjust other screw so the cabinet's height matches the others I guess
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you can adjust the up-and-down for level, then tighten the in-and-out until it touches the wall. No need to try and tighten it more, once you feel it touch. As walls are seldom true it may not touch all the way up. You might have one side out more than the other to avoid twisting the carcase.

The hooks continue to hang, even when loose (as you have to, to lift the cab on and off)
 
you can adjust the up-and-down for level, then tighten the in-and-out until it touches the wall. No need to try and tighten it more, once you feel it touch. As walls are seldom true it may not touch all the way up. You might have one side out more than the other to avoid twisting the carcase.

The hooks continue to hang, even when loose (as you have to, to lift the cab on and off)


My friend got the units level by holding them in place then marking through the holes where hooks go. Then drilling the holes for the brackets to go there. Is that the best way to get them level?
 
Mark a line around the room where units are going level with the bottom Then another line level with the bracket fixing holes and drill holes at that height .Did the instructions come with the units that specified the distance of the bracket holes from the top or bottom of the unit ? if not its easy enough to work it out
 
My friend got the units level by holding them in place then marking through the holes where hooks go. Then drilling the holes for the brackets to go there. Is that the best way to get them level?

How many hands has he got?

no need to balance the cabinets on your head while marking the wall. They might move a bit (or you might drop them)

Determine the finished distance from the ceiling to the hanger.

mark (at least) one hole position.

Climb on your steps

Use your longest spirit level to draw a line all along the wall and sensibility-check it to the ceiling (the ceiling is probably nearly, but not perfectly, level). Turn the spirit level round, left to right, and check it again.

If you follow my recommendation to use hanging rails, you can drill one hole at the end of the rail, and screw that, then hold the rail level and pencil the rest of the hole positions. You need fewer hands if you mark, drill and screw the two ends, then the rail will hold itself up while you mark the rest.

Having established where the first hook needs to go, you can measure the distance between them, on the back of the cabinet, to determine where the other goes.

Though if you use rail you can move them sideways as much or as little as you like so it doesn't matter.
 

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