Putting WC on a pedestal

Joined
24 Nov 2013
Messages
328
Reaction score
12
Location
Berkshire
Country
United Kingdom
So current WC seems to have been plumbed into the stack about 50mm too low so the waste has to go up the waste pipe a little before heading down into the stack. I think it is that that is causing the room to smell especially after a flush?

Anyway, would it be a stupid idea to cut a thick piece of wood to the shape of the base of the pan and then mount the toilet a little higher?
 
Sponsored Links
its as above an ok odea , do it in a couple or so of pieces of ply, glued and screwed together. sit the pan on the ply, draw the outlineand jigsaw the outline.paint the edges to suit,screw the ply to the floor.
but remember the cistern is moving up 50mm to and any other connections will change position.

photo of what youve got there now at the pan connector could help. any pan connectors or extensions must be changed fr new
 
Many thanks for the answers. I've attached a pic of the current situation. The camera was dead level on the floor for both shots.
When I mentioned this to the wife she said it was a very old toilet and why don't we put a new one there so that is the current plan.
However, is there enough pipe there for me to insert one of these?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-wc-con8f-90-flexible-pan-connector-white-110mm/28262
(which costs half the price of the new WC !!)

Its only about 320mm from the nearest edge of the pan outlet to the nearest edge of the stack boxing in that you can see. I guess I could move the new one a little if I had to.

I'm assuming the two 45 elbows are solvent welded so would need to cut very close to the boxing in to get a bit of pipe?
 

Attachments

  • IMAG2142.jpg
    IMAG2142.jpg
    116.2 KB · Views: 210
  • IMAG2143.jpg
    IMAG2143.jpg
    137.4 KB · Views: 224
Sponsored Links
i would make it perhaps 2" bigger to give you an inch all round as the screws near the edge from the pan may cause the edge to break
this also allows for deviations and allowing for shape and design if you wish on the exposed surface like a chamfer or roundover
 
i would make it perhaps 2" bigger to give you an inch all round as the screws near the edge from the pan may cause the edge to break
this also allows for deviations and allowing for shape and design if you wish on the exposed surface like a chamfer or roundover

Cheers for that makes sense but I'm still not sure where to cut the existing pipe? Will it have to be virtually flush with the existing boxing? I was thinking that the new flexible connector goes inside the pipe so maybe I can cut the existing connector a few inches away from the boxing?
Thanks again!
 
I'm assuming the two 45 elbows are solvent welded so would need to cut very close to the boxing in to get a bit of pipe?
Yes solvent weld - cut through the 45 fitting nearest to the stack leaving a stub for the connector - the one shown will work. As you thought- a few inches from the boxing. You can use a disposable woodsaw.
 
To be honest unless you want to move it up for other reasons, with that setup idI prefer to remove those two existing bends, take the pipe straight across to near the loo from the stack, then put the 45 degree bend diagonally up to the toilet outlet.
That way you have a decent fall right out of the pan and then a gentle bend to rush it into the stack.
Disclaimer is I'm a DIY not a pro
 
When I mentioned this to the wife she said it was a very old toilet and why don't we put a new one there so that is the current plan.
Toilet plinths are available,Maybe your new toilet pan manufacture does plinths as well.Worth an ask (y)
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top