Quick once over

[Kaelosfandango]

Before I get an electrician in I'm just thinking out how to run the electrics in to a kitchen. It was previously in a different room and so the new room needs the necessary outlets etc.

The picture should show what I'm thinking. The one area I'm not sure about is whether the cooker feed, ring and the spur upto the extractor fcu could be run in the same channel?

Any suggestions or advice would be welcomed.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Your electrician would be best to advise on site!

As a quick overview I would go vertically up from each double socket, or horizontally round to the sockets. The safe zone for cables is vertical or horiz from a switch or socket etc but the width is only as much as the box. I think you'll have too many cables by the cooker to achieve that.

PS, where is the isolation switch for the cooker?

 

[david_uk]

You are also missing FCU's for the under counter appliances. Place one next to the double socket, putting the fcu on the ring and running the fused supply to the under counter appliance. I'd be inclined to put the fcu for the extractor down next to a socket. Again, it's easy to put the fcu on the ring and you have an easy way of isolating the fan. You can get engraved fcu's that look good.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

And why deliberately introduce spurs, including spurred socket outlets, into a brand new design?

Make sure you get a registered electrician as this work is notifiable.

 

[flameport]

3 double socket outlets in a kitchen is nowhere near enough. 6 or 8 would be more like it.

 

[breezer]

3 double socket outlets in a kitchen is nowhere near enough. 6 or 8 would be more like it.

no where for the toaster, kettle, tv set, ignition for cooker, microwave, extractor above cooker, food mixer to be plugged in

 

[Kaelosfandango]

The kitchen is only 2.4 metres square. The open wall has an external door and window so the sink will be there. The washing machine, fridge/freezer, cooker are all going to be stand alone units as the property is to be rented. That is why I thought a spur down to the fridge, washing machine would be suitable.

I'm not doing it myself just trying to understand the principles really. When you have a FCU on the main how do you take the feed from this to the appliance? Is it run in the wall and just exits from the wall?

 

[AndyPRK]

much easier to put a few more sockets in now, rather than later

 

[breezer]

rented makes it worse, the people renting it will more than likely plug in multiple leads.

take a T.V for example.

many years ago, one socket required. now its

tv, DVD, surround sound, satelite, signal amp,table light, "hi fi", plug in room frgrance etc. no one thought then you would need more than 1 socket.

 

[bongos]

When you have a FCU on the main how do you take the feed from this to the appliance? Is it run in the wall and just exits from the wall?

You would have the FCU on the ring final circuit and then run a cable down to an unswitched socket.

 

[flameport]

as the property is to be rented. That is why I thought a spur down to the fridge, washing machine would be suitable.

Don't fit fused spurs. If you do, the fuse in the FCU will blow and then you will have the tenants on the phone complaining that their fridge or whatever is not working even though they already changed the fuse in the plug.

The better option is to have a 20A switch above the worktop and an unswitched socket below. This way the only fuse is the one in the appliance plug.
I woulnd't fit a ring either - fit 2x 20A radials, the first one for the fixed appliances (fridge, washer, extractor etc) with 20A switches above the worktop and unswitched sockets below.
The other 20A radial is for the sockets above the worktop.

For the cooker, the ideal arrangement is a 32A radial circuit with switch above the worktop next to the cooker space. Behind the cooker have a cooker outlet plate and an unswitched single socket, and a gas connection.
That will cover virtually all types of cooker.

Don't forget the lighting.