Quick question on smart thermostat wiring with pic
- Thread starter cammy2207
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So not compliant with any UK regulations then, presumably....At a guess I'd say you'd need to link 1 to 4 and put your switch Live into 2, but without knowing whether the switching side is capable of handling the required load it's not possible to say whether this would be safe to do
No 1 is the switched live.
@ajstoneservices that's what I thought.
@muggles not sure about your version but hoping to read your thoughts.
@muggles not sure about your version but hoping to read your thoughts.
Get a multimeter, power up the stat, no call test continuity across T1- T2, if it's open circuit and then have the stat call for heat and see if you now get continuity across T1- T2.
If you do then T1- T2 is switched closed so @muggles would be the solution, if, as he mentions, the stat is capable of taking 240v @ 6amps, across the switch without melting
According to the diagram there is no internal bridge from the L to T1, when the stat is calling, so can't see how T1 would become a switched live @240v. Is there no paperwork that came with the stat?
If you do then T1- T2 is switched closed so @muggles would be the solution, if, as he mentions, the stat is capable of taking 240v @ 6amps, across the switch without melting
According to the diagram there is no internal bridge from the L to T1, when the stat is calling, so can't see how T1 would become a switched live @240v. Is there no paperwork that came with the stat?
I have the instructions in front of me.
L = L1 =load
2 = N2 = load
3 = N
4 = L
L = L1 =load
2 = N2 = load
3 = N
4 = L
If it's the Programmable Thermostat, Arxus Modern Smart Round LCD Touch Screen (bht6000) then I'm not sure about that. If its the GB version for electric heating then yup, T1 is live, if it's the GC version (as in the OP's picture) then there's no live at T1, it's a (dry) volt free contact. Therefore you'd need to bridge from live to T1. It does state it's 3A/16A switching, model dependent, so should be able to take a 240v supply but I'd check it out thoroughly beforehand.
Ah, I wasn't aware of there being 3 versions of that stat and was looking at the instructions for the GB version.
Hi
It is the GC pic in madrabs post.
So it's a bridge from 4 to 1 then?
A few conflicting ideas here.
My current stat is the GB pic. It is for underfloor but it works fine with the boiler, and as @ajstoneservices services says, it is the switched live to L1.
Any defining answers?
It is the GC pic in madrabs post.
So it's a bridge from 4 to 1 then?
A few conflicting ideas here.
My current stat is the GB pic. It is for underfloor but it works fine with the boiler, and as @ajstoneservices services says, it is the switched live to L1.
Any defining answers?
Yup, I thought that at first too, GB meaning a Great Britain version but seems it's just the version letters they have used.
As muggles post then link 4-1 switched live on 2
If it's the GB version then you need to bridge from L to T1, T2 then becomes the switched live. The GC version is internally bridged and then T1 is the switched live.
With an electric boiler/heater it would take it's power direct from T1 (L) and T2 (N) up to a max draw of 16A
With an electric boiler/heater it would take it's power direct from T1 (L) and T2 (N) up to a max draw of 16A
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