Radiator efficiency (new v 25 years ago)

[stanrog]

My front room radiator is 400mm high x 2400mm length, K1 type, purchased late 1980's, make unknown. During average winter conditions, heat output is sufficient but when weather conditions are very cold it takes a couple of hours to heat room to 21c. Both radiator lockshield values are fully open, radiator gets to hot to touch, room has cavity wall insulation. piping is in concrete floor, pump circulation is good.

I cannot increase length of radiator but I could increase height to max of 450mm which would, I believe, give me an increase in output of a little over 300 watts. Would there be any further increase in output due to the fact it is a newer radiator (ie comparing like for like (k1 to k1) are newer radiators significantly more efficient in heat output than those available 25 years ago and if so by how many watts)

Or, would my best bet be to fit a a P+ type which would have to be 450 x 2400mm as I cannot locate a 400 x 2400mm. As piping is in concrete floor
this may cause a problem moving it a little bit further away from the wall to fit a P+. Pipe tails are 90mm from floor to valve.

regards

Stanrog

 

[jgphGAS]

why not fit a k2 rad it is a double rad double convector and will give you much more heat output.

http://www.discountedheating.co.uk/...ouble-panel-double-convector-k2-radiator.html

 

[stanrog]

Thanks jgphGAS, this is an option I had considered but this would require the radiator tails being further away from the wall plus I thought could be giving me much more than I need. I might be lucky and have a little bit of play where the tails come out of the floor to fit a P+ but a K2 I am doubtful but will not know until I take the radiator off. If the newer K1 does not give me a significant increase to that I have now the P+ I believe gives me at least 1Kw more than I have now and thus seems sufficient.


regards

Stanrog

 

[Agile]

All rads are 100% efficient, old or new!

You can fit the largest possible rad because the TRV will turn it down if the room gets too hot. Larger rads can give a higher boler efficiency.

The finned rads are about 30% higher output than non finned of the same size.

Wider rads are better because they give slightly more heat output and distribute it more evenly in the room. Installers like to fit short double panel but that looks worse and is less good for the occupiers than a wide single panel instead.

Tony

 

[grahamderek]

You can tell which people don't actually do the job, and don't even understand the problem.
To Stanrog;
The usual solution to your problem, is to use a radiator one size down in length. Cut the feed pipes 1" above the floor then use elbows with the horizontal tube angled away from the wall, to directly underneath the valve.
Not very pretty, but comfort beats pretty any day.
Once you've chosen the length, you can choose the height and panel layout to suit.

 

[sailorashore]

Well done grahamderek !

 

[Agile]

You can tell which people don't actually do the job, and don't even understand the problem.

I think that I understand the problem very well.

The problem is to fit a higher output radiator which looks good as well.

The best solution is NOT the easiest short cut for the installer!

My aim is not to make the most money but to do the job in the best possible way. Sometimes I think that I am almost alone in putting the customer first!

Tony

 

[stanrog]

Thanks for replies (except sailorashore which offers no contribution to my question). For info grahamderek, I did find Agile's as well as the final part of your post helpful.
regards

Stanrog

 

[bolshy]

You can tell which people don't actually do the job, and don't even understand the problem.
To Stanrog;
The usual solution to your problem, is to use a radiator one size down in length. Cut the feed pipes 1" above the floor then use elbows with the horizontal tube angled away from the wall, to directly underneath the valve.
Not very pretty, but comfort beats pretty any day.
Once you've chosen the length, you can choose the height and panel layout to suit.

@grahamderek
Clearly you've done work for Warmfront, if you're a heating engineer at all.
If you made a dog's arse like that of one of my customer's new radiators, once word got around you'd find yourself out of work, except in certain scumbag landlord circles.
If you're going to do a job.........

 

[bolshy]

To stanrog

You can still get 300 x 2400 type 22s afaik. 10000 odd BTUs. Not much less than a 400 x 2400. Why not fit one of these? The improved air circulation through the rad will help heat the room more quickly. And you'll have room to solder new neat offset tails.

 

[stanrog]

Thanks Bolshy, interesting alternative

Regards
Stanrog