Rattle from driver's side wheel

[slicksps]

Hi all,

New here so go easy on me

I have a 1997 Mazda MX6 which has been falling apart since the day I bought it, I've replaced so many bits from ABS cables and bonnet release cables to brake rotors, timing belt, water pump, and suspension, I've had tensioner pulleys fly off on the M4... I love this car but it hates me.

Anyway my latest issue is difficult to test for safety reasons.

In the first 30 seconds of driving from cold at any speed, there is a rattle coming from the front drivers side wheel. It goes away when stationary. It sounds like a couple of stones small in a tumble dryer and gets worse with speed but not revs. After this time, the noise goes away completely and doesn't come back until the car has been parked overnight. Leaving it parked for an hour or two, it will drive normally.

Any ideas about where to start? (Preferably not a garage, their bills are really stacking up!)

 

[wotan]

Jack the car up and look for damaged gaitors, on the constant velocity joints.
I have had similar noise on a Peugeot.

Wotan

 

[slicksps]

Thanks Wotan,

Finally managed to get underneath today and found nothing. Gaitors seem fine with no leaks but the passenger side one was brand new from last MOT so I'll keep an eye on it. I did find the passenger side needs a new tie rod end (ordered) which explains the short life of my last tyres. Drivers side there's no play, no odd noises when turning by hand. I put it into gear while raised and it rotated almost freely (the differential favours the passenger wheel, I'm doing this on the road between parked cars so didn't want to risk jamming the front wheel while running), I had driven it a few hours before though so it may mean nothing. I might try the same thing again when cold to find the exact source of the noise.

 

[Dave54]

Two things that spring to mind, are the cv joints as Wotan said, and the wheel bearings. Neither are going to rattle turning the wheel on the jack. CV joints often "knock on lock" when they are on the way out, that is if you drive forward with the steering locked fully over you will hear a knocking sound. In my experience they often go after a boot has split and been replaced, because the road crud has already got in. Wheel bearing noise will often get more or less pronounced when driving round bends as the weight is transferred on or off that side.

 

[slicksps]

Thanks Dave - Do you think it could be a wheel bearing? I withheld the fact that it had shown some signs of bearing wear on that side on the motorway but didn't want to mention it and sway opinion.

 

[Dave54]

To be honest mate it's difficult to tell exactly in the early stages, and certainly without being in the car. I have generally found that you can usually feel front wheel bearing that are starting to go, as a sort of slight rumble through the steering. What I have usually ended up doing in the past is changing the bearing and the cv at the same time. I don't know the specifics of your car though and how difficult a job it might be. I do my own cars, but I don't do them for a living or anything. On the fwd cars I have worked on the centre nut on the drive shaft is enormously tight, and needs to be torqued back up on re-assembly.

 

[Burnerman]

To be honest I've never heard a rattle from a wheel bearing, but Dave's 'sway' diagnosis is spot on.
There's no anti rattle shims been left out of the disc pad assembly, has there? Any movement here causes a definite click, but naturally enough goes away when the brakes are applied. Its worth checking for a cracked disc at the same time, but this is rare on ventilated types.
John

 

[slicksps]

I've just uploaded a video... still can't find anything. I've been testing on full lock in either direction for CV joint. It was the other side which was replaced not this one...

Still stuck :-/ Doesn't seem to be getting any better or worse..[/youtube][/url]

 

[slicksps]

Just found someone with the same problem, and like them, I recently had that tyre changed... I don't know if that's a clue...

 

[Burnerman]

Hell
Take that wheel off, and give it a good bounce on the ground.....
I've never had a CV or bearing sound like that
John

 

[slicksps]

That is such a stupid suggestion... but I've not tried it so here goes

I'm sorting the tie rod end tomorrow so will bounce the other wheel around just to rule that out! I'd love it if you were right! Time will tell!

 

[Burnerman]

At the same time, check that the disc isn't touching the backplate as it rotates.....
John

 

[slicksps]

Gave the wheel a good bounce today... nothing...

After another look at the CV gaitor, there's no obvious leak but it will need replacing soon as it is splitting.

Already checked backplate as these have rusted into funky patterns and had the problem on other wheels. But that was just a light metal grating noise...

Still no further forward, I think it's going to have to be the garage... Still tie rod's replaced, windows, hinges and sunroof all oiled and recharged the battery after playing with the windows all day and couldn't start the car... shouldn't have had the radio on at the same time!

I'll replace the bearing first as that seems to be going anyway, and just pray it's an odd noise from that and not also the CV joint. This car thinks money grows on trees. Thanks all for your help.

 

[slicksps]

Just thought I should add because while looking for help I found so many old posts without the solution!

I changed the wheel bearing and CV boot so managed to have a good look. With the wheel off and on jackstands, I chocked the back wheels and checked the differential works to ensure I didn't get crushed to death. I then got underneath while my wife started the engine, put it into first and eased off the clutch. The noise is coming from the Intermediate shaft bearing (also known as carrier bearing, axle support bearing etc. which holds the shaft to the car. Two theories now, either a broken ball bearing requiring a complete replacement (suggested by amateur mechanic friend who heard it first hand), or debris in the bearing (suggested by pro mechanic just from the video), replacement ideal but cleaning out and re-greasing may give me a few more miles. I like the last option as this bearing is impossible to find!

 

[Burnerman]

I would have thought that the carrier bearing is on a bracket that unbolts from the transmission, does it not?
I think a new carrier bearing is needed, and I imagine the driveshaft has to be split to slide it through.....if there's a propshaft remanufacturer near you, they'll do it easily.
If you can press the old bearing out, a bearing factor will be able to match it.
John