Ravenheat LS80 no DHW, thermistor and diaphramn changed

pls answer my earlier question, does the burner fire of it's own accord when you run a hot tap? Sorry if you have answered it but there's alot to read!
 
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Andy the burner does not fire when running the hot tap.

However - update. My g/f just ran in saying there is a flood in the kitchen. The central heating is on, even though the timer is off, and there are floods of water coming out of the bottom of the boiler.

So at the risk of electrocution, I turned the boiler off, with the switch on the front of the boiler, and the boiler STILL runs CH, taps still cold, running tap reduces pressure in boiler, boiler pressure had risen on its own.

So I turned the boiler off at wall, as pressure keeps going up, and turned off hot and cold feeds to boiler (well red and blue taps).

Do I need to turn the mains off, will I wake up to a flood, or will the boiler simply explode, as the pressure raises, or is it safe for now, and how does this catastrophic fail relate to the original fault, and the work done by a registered professional fitter?
 
Safety Advice!

Anyone who encounters this problem ALWAYS turn the boiler off at the switched spur or wall socket!

NEVER touch the boiler itself as water on it could electrocute you!

You seem to want to blame some professional although your postings seem to indicate that you have done most of the work inside the boiler.

You also need to isolate the mains water inlet to the boiler.

It should be quite easy to see whats leaking inside.

Tony
 
I had a boiler engineer to clip on a thermistor that I purchased.

I had a boiler engineer to change the diaphramn. That he sourced. And charged me £20 for, even though it didn't fix the problem, or indeed made the issue worse.

My old boiler; I had a boiler engineer to fix it, as it died, he changed a 315mA fuse for a 3A fuse, it worked until he left the building. He refused to return to fix it.

My old boiler; I got another boiler engineer to fix the damage of the first engineer, and he changed a part, spent all day at it, and it still didn't work.

So huh, yeah, I pretty much blame boiler engineers for not fixing the problem. As they have done the work, not me!
 
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Smell of gas, weak, is making me dizzy, the leak has stopped after I turned off the valves to the boiler, and the pressure seems stable.

Is this a good sign? Replace the diaphramn, and flood the house? And make the boiler come on of its own accord, and not switch off? And increase the pressure in the system of its own accord, when the feedpipe isnt attached?

As a computer tech, I don't fix a computer, then it breaks more after I leave. But I'm not registered. The people that have attempted a 'repair' on this, have always made the origional fault worse, to the point of flooding my kitchen, and causing thousands of pounds worth of damage.

So why are boiler engineers registered for? To break boilers? To not do the job they are tasked with? To make the issue worse?

Has ANY boiler repairer actually FIXED a problem? I tried 4 times, and the result was a resolute NO. Infact they exclusively made the problem WORSE.

And I've also been fed the line; well these boilers are rubbish, parts aren't available, they are made in the Far East,

An industry in corruption. I fix your TV etc with no BS. I get a load of BS about fixing the boiler, and it's more broken NOW than it was before an 'expert' repaired it. wtf.
 
I should change to electric heating, seems you dont have much luck with gas, maybe it's Karma, what goes round comes round, fkin computers and their "it" engineers, how many times did you hear "well that windows for you" God knows how much I have spent on t****n computers, printers, routers and other crap, NON have done what they say on the tin, Toyota's software problem when you want your car to stop blah blah blah should I go on, "well thats combi's for you" have you tried rebooting it or switching it off and on again.............

Oh yea both Virgin and Sky engineers manged to blast half a facing brick out for a 6mm cable drilling throught the wall, dont blame the gas industry, we live in a nation full of arseholes in every profession, so dont take it personally.
 
Oh dear! Well i'm a little lost on this one, given all the parts you've changed and checks you've done i can't see where to go next! Unless i'm missenterperating you or something like that.... Sort the leak first anyway.
 
I called the guy back, and he came in 10 minutes, lives just down the road..reset, and rebooted the boiler, put the heating on, and guess what? NO LEAKS! yeah for the 10 minutes he was here.

So ran the CH, to dry clothes, as the bloody washing machine seems to have stopped drying clothes too (thats directly under the boiler, that spent its water all over it), and CH worked fine. Kept monitoring heating/pressure, fine.

Ran taps and they were air blocked, you know no water, then a gush, and spluttering..thought that might affect pressure..but no.

Turned boiler off at the front, to be safe; NOW I HAVE ANOTHER FLOOD!!!!!!!! even with boiler off.

Is it possible that the diaphramn was fitted the wrong way round? I had a thermostat in a car that was faulty, and that caused a pressure overload, and blew off the bottom rad hose, and that seems to be the case here, as the diaphramn is basicilly a stat..

But when the system is operating when switched off? Has the flow switch not been reattached correctly? or some other error?

pedantic vindictive man - I have a Toyota! it's throttle is fine, it's wired. What Toyota did was move to drive-by-wire, and the pot gets worn at it's outer edges, like your fuel gauge reads fine for 3/4 then gets fast for the last 1/4 ? And blame old Bill Gates for making Windows, he designed a new IP protocol, that defied the origional supported spec (that Apple still use), so easy to hack. But in a year or two, we run out of IP addresses, so a new system will be installed. Maybe called the 'cloud'. All programs on your computer are accessed remotely.

Andygasman - how to sort the leak..it don't leak when the engineer is here. Strip it myself, and see? I suspect it's leaking from the area that the engineer stripped - ie the diaphramn area of the 3 way valve. Now why would that leak at random, and start the boiler running of its own accord.
 
Wonder if it's something to do with the hw flow switch sticking on somehow with no demand then overheating and dumping the pressure from the pressure relief valve which maybe leaks or terminates inside etc. Pics may really help this thread.
 
Surely you can identify the pressure relief valve and see if its terminated outside?

Any engineer should point that out to the customer because of the safety aspects. I always do it in writing!

Tony
 
The pressure relief valve is located inside the boiler, and yes it's terminated outside. The leak is from the end of the 3 way valve where the diaphramn is located, ie the bit that the engineer took apart. The flow valve must be intermittantly sticking, since it has been disturbed.

Your posts come across as somewhat agressive Agile? I'm trying my best to answer the best I can.
 
But none of this explains why the boiler don't fire, when HW selected.

I now have more faults, floods, possible electrocution, possible explosion?
 
I am very familiar with the diverter valve on your model.

However, the diaphragm unit is totally enclosed unlike most other types.

The only place for any leak to come from is the cold water connections but they are under mains water pressure all the time and not just when cold water is used.

There is a shaft seal on the left of the diaphragm unit but is this was leaking then the only place water can exit from is the hole at the top where the saddle DHW demand switch is clipped on.

My postings are intended to be clear, concise and to the point and end with my name as I am a genuine and friendly person.

Tony
 
The boiler only leaks under pressure, but not when in use for CH, thats fine atm, it leaks when it switches itself on, and runs the CH of its own accord. And the leaking water is cold.

When the boiler switches itself on, and bypasses the front switch, bypasses the timer, and heats the CH, then it leaks.

If the boiler is set to run, as it should, it doesn't leak.

BUT still no hot water. But can't risk more flooding, so boiler switched off atm.

When the boiler initiates itself, the pressure rises on its own, this presumable causes it to eventually find the weak link in the system and leak, rather than vent.
 
Sure he has refitted the spring in the diaphragm?, unclip the hw flow switch and see if it still fires of its own accord.
 

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