Ravenheat LS80 no DHW, thermistor and diaphramn changed

Dear all, I apologize for submitting my former post, complete with the secret general operating information for ALL residential boiler systems. I am truly sorry for any implications that I may be an accredited member of any formal HVAC association, I thought I said I was in electronics. Tony (‘Agile’), thank you for your interest in my Amana HTM Plus system (installed 1982), which works nearly the same as the Ravenheat LS80 (mickymoody’s system), the Viessmann VB2-18 (my mother’s system), the IBC Technologies VFC15-150 (my friend’s system) and the NY Thermal Inc. Ti150 (a system I’m looking at for my new Canadian Rockies dream home). All the aforementioned systems have online manuals (pdf format) except for my poor old Amana HTM Plus, one of the very first of the modern natural gas high efficiency residential boiler systems, and from which experience I penned my original post. It is truly an amazing coincidence that all residential boiler systems work nearly like my 30 year old Amana HTM Plus, and that all those manufacturers have copied Amana’s original documentation in slightly reworded form… From 30 years ago and still works the same? That is quite a coincidence!!!

Anyway, all modern residential boiler systems (I humbly also include my 30 year old Amana HTM Plus) are characterized by their broad similarity of general operational characteristics, and more recently by their increasing commonality of major parts (circulation pumps, combustion chambers, igniters, heat exchangers, solid state controllers, etc.). The interested observer will also note the ever increasing tintinnabulations on the part of some heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) contractors emphasizing that only their ‘highly trained, certified, etc. etc.’ personnel are skilled enough to deal with these complex modern residential heating systems.

My own personal experience as an owner and trouble-shooter (non-accredited) of residential boiler systems for friends/acquaintances has been that erroneous ‘professional’ advice (i.e. ‘You don’t need to change the glycol every 4 or 5 years’ or ‘You don’t need a negative pressure gas valve’ or ‘You don’t need a drain/fill valve there’) has likely led to the premature repair or replacement of nearly 90% of the HTM Plus systems in my area within their first 20 years of operation, and there are only about 20 of them left in service (out of approximately 4,000 in 1985). Many of these ‘pros’ who have or had at best a sketchy understanding of galvanic corrosion tables, electronic controls, static electricity safeguards, proper low lead copper pipe soldering methods, and a litany of other modern skills required to work on these 21st century systems are convinced that their old ‘pipe bashing’ skills, some good old ‘techno-jargon’ and some certification system run by themselves will be enough to hoodwink the modern consumer into believing that ‘the pros’ know what they are doing. I acquired in over 30 years of working and teaching in electronics communications and control systems, skills that usually allow me to ascertain where to generally hunt for solutions, and the communications abilities to convey those ideas to others in language that they can understand and act on.

I did not and do not question the qualifications and expertise of anyone in this forum, my general operation comments were based on practical experience and common knowledge of how all residential boiler systems work. The extras are the thermistors, PIN diodes (used as switches) microcontrollers, and programming, etc. used in the most modern systems, but the basics are all the same. It is usually not necessary to have all the test equipment and resources to deal with microcontrollers and other sophisticated electronic devices, you’ll generally find that the electronics are the most reliable part of the modern residential HVAC system. This statement of course assumes that electronics are installed and programmed per manufacturer’s specifications and instructions.

I will respectfully bow out now to the vastly more experienced and knowledgeable forum member who is obviously capable of determining that a defective A/D converter connected to the high-sense limit thermistor was the real culprit in causing mickymoody’s unfortunate lack of hot water… or is it?

Please continue to give him (mickymoody) the kind of advice that will persuade him to purchase a new and improved system (or maybe many more expensive parts)…(good alliteration!), and a really big thank-you again for all your help and kind advice, especially distilling the basics of the system operation to him. I’m sure you are a great team player, especially on your very own team…

P.S. For all readers, to verify that generally all this residential boiler stuff works the same, have a look at
http://www.nythermal.com/uploads/file/Manuals/Trinity Ti Series Installation Manual 2010-1-5.pdf
 
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But none of the advice worked. In fact it created more expense.

The advice has not worked because you were unfortunate enough to employ four people who were simply not competent!

We can only give general advice on a forum although in this case a lot of detailed advice has been given including a photo of the inside of the diverter valve.

Only the person in front of the boiler has an opportunity to effect a repair and that means that he has to be half competent.

That boiler is totally repairable although replacing the diverter valve is not one of the easiest. It does not have an NTC high limit thermistor and the temperature control would not usually be digital on a model of this age. No boiler circuit that I have ever seen has used PIN diode switching which I usually see on RF circuits.

Tony
 
The advice has not worked because you were unfortunate enough to employ four people who were simply not competent!

Hello all again...

Thanks Tony for this most important point, and this is how most consumers get disappointed with some of the less knowledgeable HVAC service people out there. Hopefully Mickymoody is able to trouble-shoot and resolve his problem successfully (without purchasing a complete new system).

I see you have a sense of humour, plus noted my PIN diode reference (I am currently working on a solid state RF antenna switch) and you have demonstrated the technical expertise which seems to be so lacking in many HVAC 'pros' these days. I had to learn to maintain my HTM system myself after several near disasters (financially) and I just could not afford to have people come in and throw parts (non-refundable) at my problem until it was solved. Careful research discovered that my first problem was actually an intermittent 24 volt transformer, not the control unit (very expensive!) and that's where I started to research the residential boiler system I own. Generally I do have a HVAC contractor come in and inspect the system every 5 years or so, just to ensure that what I'm doing with it is legal (for insurance reasons).

Anyway, I have assisted several friends (no charge, just the challenge) and have never once found electronics (controller, thermistors, analog limit switches, etc.) to be the basic problem. As I'm sure you are well aware, the biggest single problem with residential HVAC is lack of annual maintenance/inspection, which of course only leads to major and costly repairs later on. Thanks again for your help on this forum, you may have just spurred me on to scan and publish my Amana HTM Plus manual online just to help those few remaining holdouts who are desperately tryng to avoid a huge replacement expense. Thanks again...
 
Woahh now now... What's all this talk of planes? ha!

I think maybe it's true that a little bit of knowledge is dangerous. I would bet that the problem on this boiler isn't that complicated, it's just a little miss-comminucation causing problems. I personally can't offer anymore advice as i don't think it'd get you any further, other than change the complete diverter valve of course.

A diverter valve is just over £100 for one of these, if you didn't want to take the risk British Gas offer a one-off fixed price repair for about £180 (depending on your area) They'll fix one fault for that price. So if they change the diverter and it's still faulty they'll keep fixing it till it's right at no further cost.

Have a look on their website
 
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Something doesn't add up though, the diaphragm has been changed on this which isn't standard and costs about 40 quid, plus the diverter needs removing to change it yet only 45 has been spent on repairs. I would be tempted to shut this thread down and start a clearer more concise version....or bhange the diverter and not need a thread at all ;) .
 
Dear all, I apologize for submitting my former post, complete with the secret general operating information for ALL residential boiler systems. I am truly sorry for any implications that I may be an accredited member of any formal HVAC association, I thought I said I was in electronics. Tony (‘Agile’), thank you for your interest in my Amana HTM Plus system (installed 1982), which works nearly the same as the Ravenheat LS80 (mickymoody’s system), the Viessmann VB2-18 (my mother’s system), the IBC Technologies VFC15-150 (my friend’s system) and the NY Thermal Inc. Ti150 (a system I’m looking at for my new Canadian Rockies dream home). All the aforementioned systems have online manuals (pdf format) except for my poor old Amana HTM Plus, one of the very first of the modern natural gas high efficiency residential boiler systems, and from which experience I penned my original post. It is truly an amazing coincidence that all residential boiler systems work nearly like my 30 year old Amana HTM Plus, and that all those manufacturers have copied Amana’s original documentation in slightly reworded form… From 30 years ago and still works the same? That is quite a coincidence!!!

Anyway, all modern residential boiler systems (I humbly also include my 30 year old Amana HTM Plus) are characterized by their broad similarity of general operational characteristics, and more recently by their increasing commonality of major parts (circulation pumps, combustion chambers, igniters, heat exchangers, solid state controllers, etc.). The interested observer will also note the ever increasing tintinnabulations on the part of some heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) contractors emphasizing that only their ‘highly trained, certified, etc. etc.’ personnel are skilled enough to deal with these complex modern residential heating systems.

My own personal experience as an owner and trouble-shooter (non-accredited) of residential boiler systems for friends/acquaintances has been that erroneous ‘professional’ advice (i.e. ‘You don’t need to change the glycol every 4 or 5 years’ or ‘You don’t need a negative pressure gas valve’ or ‘You don’t need a drain/fill valve there’) has likely led to the premature repair or replacement of nearly 90% of the HTM Plus systems in my area within their first 20 years of operation, and there are only about 20 of them left in service (out of approximately 4,000 in 1985). Many of these ‘pros’ who have or had at best a sketchy understanding of galvanic corrosion tables, electronic controls, static electricity safeguards, proper low lead copper pipe soldering methods, and a litany of other modern skills required to work on these 21st century systems are convinced that their old ‘pipe bashing’ skills, some good old ‘techno-jargon’ and some certification system run by themselves will be enough to hoodwink the modern consumer into believing that ‘the pros’ know what they are doing. I acquired in over 30 years of working and teaching in electronics communications and control systems, skills that usually allow me to ascertain where to generally hunt for solutions, and the communications abilities to convey those ideas to others in language that they can understand and act on.

I did not and do not question the qualifications and expertise of anyone in this forum, my general operation comments were based on practical experience and common knowledge of how all residential boiler systems work. The extras are the thermistors, PIN diodes (used as switches) microcontrollers, and programming, etc. used in the most modern systems, but the basics are all the same. It is usually not necessary to have all the test equipment and resources to deal with microcontrollers and other sophisticated electronic devices, you’ll generally find that the electronics are the most reliable part of the modern residential HVAC system. This statement of course assumes that electronics are installed and programmed per manufacturer’s specifications and instructions.

I will respectfully bow out now to the vastly more experienced and knowledgeable forum member who is obviously capable of determining that a defective A/D converter connected to the high-sense limit thermistor was the real culprit in causing mickymoody’s unfortunate lack of hot water… or is it?

Please continue to give him (mickymoody) the kind of advice that will persuade him to purchase a new and improved system (or maybe many more expensive parts)…(good alliteration!), and a really big thank-you again for all your help and kind advice, especially distilling the basics of the system operation to him. I’m sure you are a great team player, especially on your very own team…

P.S. For all readers, to verify that generally all this residential boiler stuff works the same, have a look at
http://www.nythermal.com/uploads/fi...ries Installation Manual 2010-1-5.pdf[/QUOTE]

:rolleyes:
 
Something doesn't add up though, the diaphragm has been changed on this which isn't standard and costs about 40 quid, plus the diverter needs removing to change it yet only 45 has been spent on repairs. I would be tempted to shut this thread down and start a clearer more concise version....or bhange the diverter and not need a thread at all ;) .

I DID say about a page ago, that the thread is effectively closed, until the divertor is replaced, UNLESS something else could be causing the problem.

The diaphramn cost me £20, and was purchased by the professional installer. He didn't charge labour, as it didn't effect a repair.

The thermistor cost £25 and was purchased by me, but installed by another engineer. And labour wasn't charged, as it didn't cure the fault.

My old boiler, had a too large fuse fitted, and it blew the circuit board, and another engineer replaced a transformer, spent all day working on it, and didn't charge anything, which was good of him, but to employ 4 different engineers, and NONE of them have effected a repair on 2 boilers, I think is wrong to say that I employed incompetent people, just that from that pool of people, were incompetent, and I had no alternative, other than to research myself. I'm sure you guys on here, passionate as you are, want to see it fixed, but there is no need for back biting, and quotes, and OT comment.

The facts are, I employed an engineer, it's now more broke than what it was. He won't fix that. I employed an engineer for my old boiler, he broke it more than it was, he would not return to fix it.

I had two engineers to repair the damage of the first two, they tried, replaced parts, but did not effect a repair.

I'm an electronics engineer, if I treated my customers like that, I'd be out of work. Soldering pipes together, and installing equipment is all well and good, but actually repairing the equipment when it breaks, seems to me anyway, to be a dark art for a 'boiler' installer/repairer? It's like buying a car, and the engine dies, but rather than fix it, you must buy a new car! Might be a dead battery, or a thrown piston, but nobody is quite sure, so a new car required.

CHILL OUT GUYS! It's logic vs technology, I'm upset and angry at the way that I've been treated, by people that have to be registered to operate, in my own home, and they make a mistake (which they have), then I might end up dead or drowned, or electrocuted(!)

But it's a forum, I ask for opinion, everyone has one, I might not like the outcome, (bloody expensive divertor valve ATM, and hard to reach), and that might not be the fault, so back to square one, after blowing more cash, but don't fall out with people.

I asked for a picture, as I don't have a camera that will connect to my computer..something on the usb bus is ill.

Be nice.
 
I cannot agree with your suggestion that those people you have had at your boiler were competent.

Its reasonable to expect that anyone setting themselves up as a professional boiler repairer will have the ability to actually repair your very simple boiler.

Even so I am pleased that those who came to you were totally honest in not charging any labour when they were unable to repair it.

Nor do I think an understanding of PIN diode switches is necessary for anyone repairing boilers ! Always useful for RF circuits though.

I replaced one of those diverters recently and although I always replace the whole valve, I did open the diaphragm housing on the old one for my information and thought that it looked just like the standard gianonni ones. I did not measure it with calipers though.

Mick, have you codsidered removing and examining the diaphragm yourself? If its leaking then I can only assume there is some dirt on the joint or the diaphragm is misplaced somehow.

Tony
 
Agile - give it up! You have no concept about what you are talking about. You post in a forum, then come out with some random speak.

You contradict yourself, then argue, against yorself, then post contradictory argument against yourself.

My boiler isn't so simple if people find it hard to diagnose the problem. So go..big shot...you seem to have all the answers, but no resolve.

Quite clear that I wrote INcompetent.
 
Agile - give it up! You have no concept about what you are talking about. You post in a forum, then come out with some random speak.

You contradict yourself, then argue, against yorself, then post contradictory argument against yourself.

My boiler isn't so simple if people find it hard to diagnose the problem. So go..big shot...you seem to have all the answers, but no resolve.

Quite clear that I wrote INcompetent.

I am very sorry that you dont appreciate the time and the good advice that I have given you about your boiler.

Perhaps your boiler is complicated to you but to me its a very simple model !

You clearly think that the FOUR engineers who could NOT fix your boiler were the bees knees and that I have no idea about repairing boilers !

In view of this, I am inclined to delete what I have said but I will wait until the morning in case I reconsider it as I am aware that others find this information useful in later searches.

Tony
 
Tony you really need to be a bit more intolerant of these cants. Delete your GOOD advise and forget him. If he were to pay someone to stand in front of the boiler and actually see what was happening it would be fixed by now.
OP go dig out your wallet and find the answer to your problem elsewhere.
 
Tony you really need to be a bit more intolerant of these cants. Delete your GOOD advise and forget him. If he were to pay someone to stand in front of the boiler and actually see what was happening it would be fixed by now.
OP go dig out your wallet and find the answer to your problem elsewhere.

The point being that I HAVE paid people to stand in front of the boiler, and it's more broke NOW. I haven't said that Agile is incompetent, but the engineers that I employed clearly were. As with all forums, people scan the info rather than read it and take it in, especially when the thread goes on for so long. Then people start back-biting, and having a go at one another, and saying x said this to y, and y disagrees, so x comes back. It's unpleasant, and doesn't fix the problem.

For the 3rd time, I don't have the cash to replace the divertor valve; I have no intention to spend further cash, when it turns out that the divertor valve wasn't faulty anyway, as the other two parts have proved, so what I ask again is 'Could it be anything other than the divertor valve', but the answer from Agile is personal abusive messages that don't address the question. Yes Agile has given good info, but that info has not cured the problem, so however good that info, it's been wrong, and led to expense. So give advice thats correct, or none at all. No guesswork.
 
I'm an electronics engineer, if I treated my customers like that, I'd be out of work. Soldering pipes together, and installing equipment is all well and good, but actually repairing the equipment when it breaks, seems to me anyway, to be a dark art for a 'boiler' installer/repairer?

Be nice.

As a professional electronics engineer, you should be earning a reasonable income and be conversant with PIN diode switches and attenuators. I am therefore surprised that you now say that you cannot afford a new diverter valve.

All the advice that I have given you will be sufficient to repair the boiler either yourself or any half competent boiler engineer.

Very unfortunately, and embarassingly to me, it seems that you have had FOUR incompetents who were unable to fix a very simple boiler. Of course I dont know how you chose those four. Were they for example from the Gas-safe register?

You will have known from reading this forum that British Gas do a fixed price repair at about £180 !

All the best advice that I can give will be of no use if given to four chimpanzees who are sitting in front of the boiler and covering their eyes, ears, mouths and genitals. Thats not because my advice is lacking but just because chimpanzees have not reached the stage of development whereby they can start to appreciate the technicalities involved in boilers.

Tony
 
Well they were registered with the relevant authorities, which calls into question the effectiveness of that register.

The people (the two that attended my current boiler - thus proving you don't read the thread); did not fix the boiler. You have not provided once again, any useful information, so STOP POSTING!

However, I do congratulate you on your Victorian history, that concluded that there were indeed 4 wise Monkeys (not Chimpanze's);

Hear no, Speak no, See no, and the unlikey one, Spread No. A lot of people don't know that..well done! Unfortunately...Victorian humour or morals, still doesn't answer the question I posed.

It might help the thread, if you 'actually' answered the questions..and kept in on thread?
 
You are probably getting the gas safe register confused with something which relates to an engineers technical ability.

Providing you haven't had some muppet trying to cram a standard diaphragm into the valve (which won't work and WILL leak), then your diverter is shot. To be fair eaxactly what Tony wrote 6 pages ago!

 

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