My rayburn 480k has been suffering intermittant lock out on the boiler unit but this has now become a permanent problem, has anybody any ideas on the most likely cause, also how do you remove the blast tube to replace the nozzle
Rayburn 480k
- Thread starter pjohnstone
- Start date
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Tell us which burner you have fitted, mate - and a pic or 2 would be nice.
These things need to be desooted every year....
John
These things need to be desooted every year....
John
Created a new album and put two pictures of the heater on there which hopefully if i done it right you can see. And i think it is an Eco-Flame burner - Thanks for your help so far
- Thanks for your help so far
I wouldnt touch it unless you know exactly what your doing. Just replacing the nozzle isnt going to solve much.
You need a flue gas analyser to check and adjust the combustion.
Rayburns can be very tricky to work on and the electrodes are very easy to damage.
I would recommend that you get a competent (oftec} service technician to service for you.
You need a flue gas analyser to check and adjust the combustion.
Rayburns can be very tricky to work on and the electrodes are very easy to damage.
I would recommend that you get a competent (oftec} service technician to service for you.
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The unit will indeed have to be set up by someone who has the right gear,
but if you withdraw the burner unit you can see how sooty it is.
With the thing on the floor you can remove the blast tube (2 or 3 screws in the end, often) but mark its position with a scriber first, so that it goes back in exactly the same position. You can access the nozzle from here too. Make a note of its markings so you can get a one in for stock.
Also check that the photocell is clean (an electronic eye that looks at the flame).
A good blast of compressed air is great for removing fluff from the burner fan and air passages if you can.
After that, its pressure gauge on the pump time, followed by a smoke test.
Anyway, the gas passage from the burner goes to the top back of the cooker, and soot backs up just where the flue pipe rises.
You can also withdraw the baffles (directly above the burner) for a clean. They will be as tight as hell to lift clear, and keep them in order after wire brushing them clean.
By doing all of the cleaning yourself you can ensure a good job because it can take ages! Once you are sure of the cleanliness of the entire unit, you can call Mr. Oftec in, or progress further yourself.
Last thing - I assume that the filter(s) from the tank are clear of grot and water. If the cookerside burner is working, you can assume that they aren't too bad! Enjoy......
John
but if you withdraw the burner unit you can see how sooty it is.
With the thing on the floor you can remove the blast tube (2 or 3 screws in the end, often) but mark its position with a scriber first, so that it goes back in exactly the same position. You can access the nozzle from here too. Make a note of its markings so you can get a one in for stock.
Also check that the photocell is clean (an electronic eye that looks at the flame).
A good blast of compressed air is great for removing fluff from the burner fan and air passages if you can.
After that, its pressure gauge on the pump time, followed by a smoke test.
Anyway, the gas passage from the burner goes to the top back of the cooker, and soot backs up just where the flue pipe rises.
You can also withdraw the baffles (directly above the burner) for a clean. They will be as tight as hell to lift clear, and keep them in order after wire brushing them clean.
By doing all of the cleaning yourself you can ensure a good job because it can take ages! Once you are sure of the cleanliness of the entire unit, you can call Mr. Oftec in, or progress further yourself.
Last thing - I assume that the filter(s) from the tank are clear of grot and water. If the cookerside burner is working, you can assume that they aren't too bad! Enjoy......
John
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