Rayburn Royal

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by welshfarmer, 11 Dec 2010.

  1. welshfarmer

    welshfarmer

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    We have installed a second hand Rayburn Royal,oil fed type oven, it is a twin wick type burner,my problem is that it will run for approx a day ok ,but then it will just get hotter and hotter until we have to switch it off. The oven only heats the water as the plumber who installed it said it would not run any rads. I am convinced it requires rad or towel rail fitting to expel some of the heat, but he keeps saying that the lenght of pipe work is sufficent to do this. We also have an oil fired boiler which does both heating and hot water. I have had 2 rayburn "EXPERTS " here to check the oven over they both say that the oven works ok. My questions are:
    1) how long does a pipe work have to be to expel enough heat?
    2) could the oven be drawing air therefor running rich and in turn heating it self up over time?
    3) do these systems need a rad in the line to expel heat(as i have seen some run with no rad )?
    4)how critical is the distance from the tank to theoven i.e could the tank be too high therefore forcing the oil into the burner.?
    Any help please. thank you :rolleyes: [/b]
     
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  3. spraggo

    spraggo

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    Do you mean that the oven gets to hot or the water?, is the oil control fitted with electic thermostat?, There should be a orange/blue flame about two inchs high on top of bright red burner shells on high flame with no sign off sooting, on low flame the shells will be a dull red with no sign of the flame.

    I take it that the oven is heating a separate cylinder, how far away is it from the cooker?.

    spraggo
     
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  4. welshfarmer

    welshfarmer

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    The oven heats the same cylinder as other boiler. it is approx 15 ft away from Rayburn, and yes the water is the problem it just keeps boiling, all the plumber says is that we dont use enough hot water!!!!!!!!!!!. That is the reason he comes up for the boiling problem
     
  5. outinthestix

    outinthestix

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    Surely you're not heating the cyl. with the boiler as well. If you do this the rayburn has nowhere to lose its heat. Put the boiler on central heating only. If the boiler feeds the cyl. on gravity you'll need to have the system altered to allow rayburn to heat the cyl. and the boiler only puts heat into cylinder when rayburn is switched off.
     
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  6. spraggo

    spraggo

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    .


    If I were you I would sack the plumber ;) ;)
     
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  7. Boilerman2

    Boilerman2

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    You need a Heat Loss Radiator usually in the Bathroom standard practice on any AGA/Rayburn manual oil fired cooker :rolleyes:
     
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  8. welshfarmer

    welshfarmer

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    The bioler only does central heating when Rayburn is on. Thinking about it could I have a problem with the motorised valves on the system, I.e could they be fitted in the wrong place on the pipework, where should they be? any ideas please?. I have tried to influence the plumbers train of thought about this problem, I asked him to fit a Radiator on the system,but he is still insisting that the pipe work should expel any heat. Problem is he sold us the oven and installed the complete system, as it was a new build, plus he is a family friend. It just makes things very awkward, all the other work he has done is fine.HELP PLEASE.
     
  9. djsarge1973

    djsarge1973

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    The Boiler only runs when the AGA does??? :eek: :eek: ask your friend if he runs his car without a radiator??? also is the water being pumped or gravity? personally I'd be looking at having the towel rail on the rayburn the hot water tank maybe working against you as once the hot water tank is hot the water in the rayburn has NOWHERE to dump the heat!!!! Ideally its better to have the boiler on 1 system & the rayburn on the other, as you have said that the rayburn is a wick has it been set up correctly as they are the MOST fickle of all the oil appliances, & has your family friend put a motorized valve on the Rayburn?????? there shouldnt be 1 AT ALL because if the valve is closed then how can the water flow!!!!!!
     
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  11. Boilerman2

    Boilerman2

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    I'll make up the spare room for Mr. Cock-up!! :p
     
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  12. welshfarmer

    welshfarmer

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    Thank you all for the replies have finally succeeded in getting my plumber to see sense, and he is in the process of fitting a rad to my system. The system is gravity fed. The dicussion got as hot as the rayburn ha ha . We will see how we get on. I am in the process of getting a Rayburn expert out just to re check the settings. I will keep you all informed about the outcome. :LOL:
     
  13. drbagiva

    drbagiva

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    Best place for second hand Rayburn=skip :LOL:
     
  14. cozzmic

    cozzmic

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    Remember most old Rayburn boilers were designed to heat a cylinder and are made of copper or glass lined as they went into the direct side (hot water from tap side) so an ordinary radiator cannot be used as it will rust through in no time and give you manky water. You could go to the expense of a copper or brass rad though.
     
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  15. Terrywookfit

    Terrywookfit

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    I took one out last year that was plastic.
    It looked identical to an old Stelrad.
     
  16. Terrywookfit

    Terrywookfit

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    I would also extend that statement to include new ones!!
     
  17. Nige F

    Nige F

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    O-M-G bet he doesn`t fit an old cast iron rad , with 3/4 tappings to allow gravity circulation :rolleyes: Bet he`s escaped from that Welsh city - don`t sound like a Country Plumber to me :mrgreen: Rad in copper or brass - My a*** :LOL: Cast iron one off ebay - around £40-50 .
     
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