RCBO tripping.

You will need a rather special clamp meter and even then, it may not show it if it is intermittant. finding the cause might well prove to be a world of pin - best start with an insulation tester.
... and, as I recently wrote, no clamp meter would be any use if (as would commonly be the case in the heating context) the earth leakage was directly to 'earthed metal', rather than through CPC.

Kind Regards, John
 
Sponsored Links
There seems to be some confusion.

An Insulation tester will only tell you if there are any permanent faults on the dead circuit - if not, that's it.

An earth-leakage meter, the clamp of which is placed around the live Line and Neutral conductors (not any of the CPCs - it is itself really a live RCD) will instantly tell you if there is NO leakage, in which case it might be laborious to determine the cause by operating the various stages of the equipment and viewing the readings.

OR

Either meter might tell you that there is a permanent leakage of, say ~22mA, (although I would say the ELCM will be more accurate) in which case it will take very little more to trip the RCD. This 22mA leakage can then be found and removed/repaired and then all should be well.
 
An earth-leakage meter, the clamp of which is placed around the live Line and Neutral conductors (not any of the CPCs - it is itself really a live RCD) ....
True. I must admit that (probably because I have never owned or used a "mA" clamp meter, I'd overlooked the ('obvious') approach of clamping it around L+N. Apologies for that oversight.
.... will instantly tell you if there is NO leakage ...
Yes - or, more precisely, "if there is NO permanent leakage".

As with any fault finding, no matter what means of testing one is adopting, the potential nightmare arises if the fault (at least, the majority of the fault current which is resulting the the tripping) is intermittent in its existence.

Kind Regards, John
 
True. I must admit that (probably because I have never owned or used a "mA" clamp meter, I'd overlooked the ('obvious') approach of clamping it around L+N.
Yes - or, more precisely, "if there is NO permanent leakage".

Just around those two wires the L and N leaving out the E, would work - assuming he could get his hands on a suitably sensitive instrument, which seems highly unlikely. Hence why I have twice suggested that a common or garden insulation tester is the way forward. His electrician guy should certainly have readily one to hand and it might prove quick way forward..
 
Sponsored Links
Just around those two wires the L and N leaving out the E, would work ....
As I said, once I realised my oversight, it was 'obvious' that such was the thing to do...
- assuming he could get his hands on a suitably sensitive instrument. which seems highly unlikely.
Although, as I said, I have never owned, nor even used, a "mA clamp meter", they have been widely available (and not necessarily as expensive as one might expect - although some {e.g. Fluke} are!) for years.
Hence why I have twice suggested that a common or garden insulation tester is the way forward. His electrician guy should certainly have readily one to hand and it might prove quick way forward..
It might, but as i have also 'suggested' (probably more than 'twice' :) ) IR testing would only be useful if most of the earth leakage were present 'permanently', with just a little extra leakage from something added to it occasionally, to take the RCBO ('intermittently') over its trip threshold.

However, as I keep saying, if all (or most) of the leakage which causes the trips is, itself, 'intermittent' (which I suspect is quite probably the case), then IR testing would be of no help (unless one were exceptionally 'lucky'!!).

Kind Regards, John
 
Once again, I appreciate your comments gents and thanks for sharing them with me.
I don't feel I can trouble the electrician to hang around and test the burner etc just now - he is rushed off his feet anyway.
I think I'll rewire the boiler internals just in case the original cables are starting to fail due to the considerable heat that's within the boiler housing and take it from there.
Cheers
John :)
 
.... I don't feel I can trouble the electrician to hang around and test the burner etc just now ...
This is at least the second time you've mentioned the burner (which you may soon be replacing) but, in the context of this discussion (and although I agree that 'anything is possible'), I would think that it's very unlikley to be the cause of your RCBO trips.
I think I'll rewire the boiler internals just in case the original cables are starting to fail due to the considerable heat that's within the boiler housing and take it from there.
There's nothing to be lost by doing that (if its done properly), but unless the wiring show signs of thermal damage, I again think it unlikley that that would solve your problem.

Anyway, good luck!

Kind Regards, John
 
This is at least the second time you've mentioned the burner (which you may soon be replacing) but, in the context of this discussion (and although I agree that 'anything is possible'), I would think that it's very unlikley to be the cause of your RCBO trips.

I wouldn't be as sure - I'm not familiar with them nor what parts they might include.
 
This is at least the second time you've mentioned the burner (which you may soon be replacing) but, in the context of this discussion (and although I agree that 'anything is possible'), I would think that it's very unlikley to be the cause of your RCBO trips.
There's nothing to be lost by doing that (if its done properly), but unless the wiring show signs of thermal damage, I again think it unlikley that that would solve your problem.

Anyway, good luck!

Kind Regards, John
I’m only going for the burner because my system is very basic with a room stat controlling the circulating pump.....the boiler has only a knackered time clock and off/on switch.
The burner consists of a 70w motor, control box and transformer igniter plus an oil supply solenoid so maybe there’s potential issues to look at, at least.
I’m able to swap the burner over with my spare in an hour.
If the boiler is unplugged, the supply remains on.
Thanks!
John :)
 
I’m only going for the burner because my system is very basic with a room stat controlling the circulating pump.....the boiler has only a knackered time clock and off/on switch.
The burner consists of a 70w motor, control box and transformer igniter plus an oil supply solenoid so maybe there’s potential issues to look at, at least.
I’m able to swap the burner over with my spare in an hour.
If the boiler is unplugged, the supply remains on.
Thanks!
John :)

With so many likely parts to suffer earth leakage, classed as 'the burner', the burner would be my prime suspect without any doubt and that despite John's opinion to the contrary.
 
... The burner consists of a 70w motor, control box and transformer igniter plus an oil supply solenoid so maybe there’s potential issues to look at, at least.
Oh, I thought you meant literally just the 'burner' - what you are now talking about offers a significant amount of scope for electrical issues - so it will be interesting to hear what happens if/when you replace it.

Kind Regards, John
 
With so many likely parts to suffer earth leakage, classed as 'the burner', the burner would be my prime suspect without any doubt and that despite John's opinion to the contrary.
As you will presumably understand, my "opinion to the contrary" was expressed when I was assuming that "the burner" was just the burner (as it would be in my ancient gas boiler). We have now been told that "the burner" includes most of the electrical parts of the boiler, and so my opinion has obviously changed!

Kind Regards, John
 
I hope to be back living in the house in early February so it's on hold until then.
Thanks for the interest!
John :)
Oh, I thought you meant literally just the 'burner' - what you are now talking about offers a significant amount of scope for electrical issues - so it will be interesting to hear what happens if/when you replace it.

Kind Regards, John
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top