RCD tripping from immersion heaters

[Scally-Ho]

I hope that jointing paste he used was not of the setting type, or future removal will be a right b'stard!

 

[ericmark]

Have a little grow up mate, if ya like.... this blokes good and pretty comical.

I note he opens the valve, then closes it a tad again, that is also good practice so it will not seize.

 

[ericmark]

Has anyone said where the element is?

Top entry - as with 27in. - or side entry near the bottom.

Since the two pictures of the nuts on the cover are not aliened the same, I would assume side entry. Of course, it may not even be in the cylinder, but we don't see the Willis system much on mainland UK. Did ask the plumber I got to change mine about Willis, and got a blank expression, so thought saver not to ask for one of them.

I looked for the instructions to see how this one is wired.

And it uses a single supply, so if either immersion is damaged, both will fail. Darn expensive controller, nearly as expensive as mine which does a lot more, using solar power.

It cost me £80 for the plumber, but the last thing I wanted was a buckled tank, and £30 for the element, and £10 for the spanner, as I don't have one, so his labour cost me £40, he even emptied the airing cupboard for me. I live in the country, so he had transport costs, both fuel and time, and an hour at the house, so he was likely getting less than £20 an hour, so think that was reasonable.

When I was younger I did do my own plumbing, I remember fitting a hot coil in the cylinder when fitting my own central heating, but today I want things done for me, and with things like an immersion heater, when you don't know which one has failed, is it worth £40 for the easy life?

 

[EFLImpudence]

You cannot empty the cylinder

Drain valve?

 

[CountryFan]

You cannot empty the cylinder

Yes you can, several ways tbh. Drain cock being the obvious one.

 

[CrazeUK]

First. Thanks to everyone thats responded. Every response is a learning opportunity.

I think I may have found the issue.

The boost thermostat is showing continuity between:
L - N (expected)
L - E (fault)
N - E (Fault).

The off peak on:
L - N (expected)

So the boost one is the issue. Ive just disconnected it as we never use boost. So at least it will work until it's ready to be replaced.

Please correct me if I am wrong

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

So the boost one is the issue. Ive just disconnected it as we never use boost. So at least it will work until it's ready to be replaced.

Yes, sounds sensible.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Yes you can, several ways tbh. Drain cock being the obvious one.

Assuming you have a drain cock. The alternative, would be to first remove the element, then syphon the water out.

 

[CountryFan]

Assuming you have a drain cock. The alternative, would be to first remove the element, then syphon the water out.

If it’s a top entry one yes. The other being crack the top of the cylinder connection and syphon it that way.

 

[CrazeUK]

Has anyone said where the element is?

Top entry - as with 27in. - or side entry near the bottom.

Its the middle and bottom.

 

[CrazeUK]

Okay. So given I think it was the boost one that failed (which is really strange), I disconnected it all together and left the wire hanging. I will swap / get it swapped in a few days when I have a bit more time.

The instructions, say that when using a single heater, you should jump terminal 4 (boost) and 5 (off peak) - assuming to allow you to use boost when you need.

Is that safe? - I.e. if the offpeak programme was running and the boost came on at the same time. I assume the heater will only draw whats needed as opposed to getting double the power).

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The instructions, say that when using a single heater, you should jump terminal 4 (boost) and 5 (off peak) - assuming to allow you to use boost when you need.

Is that safe? - I.e. if the offpeak programme was running and the boost came on at the same time. I assume the heater will only draw whats needed as opposed to getting double the power).

It is safe to do that, with only a single element connected, but with both elements connected and working, it would draw double the current, and trip the supply - so remove the link, once repaired.

Hopefully the end of the flex where you have left it dangling, the dangling end - was originally connected to the controller?

 

[CountryFan]

Its the middle and bottom.

Looks like there’s a drain cock at the bottom