Re-decorating: Disable alarm on Scantronic 9751

[Syx]

Good evening all, I hope you'll excuse my first post being a question but it seems I have little where else to go!

Having moved into my current house in 2009, it's gotten around to that time where some redecorating is required. This will, unfortunately, require the re-routing of some of the alarm cables - the alarm panel is downstairs and there is a secondary box in the loft (not sure what this is as I'm not about to open it!); this box has inputs from the PIR units in the house and the cables run down the center of a wall in the bedroom below where there was once a fitted wardrobe.

Whilst, in true DIY spirit, I'm up to the challenge, when I called up my alarm installer I was presented with a no-number tone; further investigation indicates they're no longer in business.

So, I'd just like to check that:

1) Simply entering "engineer" mode will disable the alarm tamper circuits (fortunately I have the code) - and no options need to be set to allow this.
2) There are no problems with me using standard terminal blocks to connect the cables if necessary.

The engineer/install manual probably explains this but I don't have it - only the user manual - and I'm aware that I can't request it (and no, this isn't a subtle request ) - so I'll just ask the two questions above instead.

Many thanks for your assistance.

Sam

 

[oasistechnical]

google the manual, its out there!

we never advise using terminal block on an alarm cable!

re route new cabl;es and connect them to the devices and back to the panel;
make a not of how each device is connected.
entering into engineer allows you to open the box in the roof void, or werever it is, disconnect the mains from the panel before opening,
remove the AUX power for the devices,
then remove and re wire

 

[Syx]

Hi oasistechnical; thank you for your response.

I've got a copy of the manual now - just took a fair bit of Googlin'!

My only problem is that in order to route back to one of the PIRs it's a hefty job involving a lot of floorboard lifting - from what I can tell when some previous work was going on the alarm was fitted at the same time.
As such in order to avoid disrupting the entire family while I trace the wiring back it would just be much easier to use a terminal block at a much more accessible point.
If it's not something you'd recommend then is there an alternative? Scotch locks perhaps?

If not then I'll go get my earplugs before I tell the wife what to expect

 

[oasistechnical]

if you go onto security warehouse.co uk you will find a thing called an alarm junction box

use the square one, not the little oblong one, (as there are not enough connections.

please don't use scotch locks, they are not suitable for the job!!!!

any probs, post again, and we try to help you out!

Oasis

also check how old the battery is in the panel!, if it is over 4 years old, get a new one, 7 AMP HOUR 12V only, dont use a little one, it aint worth it!

 

[Syx]

Hi Oasis;

I've had the panel open this evening; the battery has a useful sticker on it dating the install as June 2008 - so should be good for another year.

I've just taken a peek at secware for the junction box; assuming the one you are referring to is the square 24 connector one then that appears to be just standard terminal blocks inside a plastic housing (albeit with a tamper switch) - so any reason as to why I can't do the same and put them into a housing of my own?
Also, as they wire is 6 core to the PIR is there any reason why I should not use the 6 way as you suggest against?

Just trying to get a better idea as to the right approach

Oh, and will avoid the scotch locks!


P.s. screwterminalblock; you'll excuse me if I ignore you as you have 1 post at the time of writing and that's to advertise terminal blocks - your name suggests there might be a reason why you've done that!

 

[Europlex]

I've had the panel open this evening; the battery has a useful sticker on it dating the install as June 2008 - so should be good for another year.

Forget the date on the battery, it needs to be tested correctly.

It's like looking at a fuse, looks ok but, .........

I suggest the box in the loft is an additional power supply, this will have a battery as well.

 

[oasistechnical]

sorry for my typo, it happens quite often.

if you have only 6 core cable, then yes use the small oblong junction boxes,
don't use the extra large junction boxes, (personally i cannot remember the last time i used one of them!!)

as europlex says, even if the battery has a date of 2008 on it, while you are in the box, change it, it will save you loads of hassel later on!!!

Oasis

hope this helps

 

[Syx]

Thank you Europlex and Oasis.

I've had a look at the box in the loft; no battery here - it appears to just be an expander.

I'll change the battery whilst I've got the panel open, as you say it's not going to do any harm to put in a fresh one!
Any idea what the voltage should be across the terminals as a cut-off for replacement? Would be useful to know for 4 years time...

I shall be getting a couple of the smaller junction boxes to re route the cables I cannot easily access, and for the others I'll just run new lengths through to the PIRs.

Thank you again for your continued assistance - if I'm honest I had not expected this much help and so am very grateful indeed.

 

[oasistechnical]

you cannot test the battery just using a multimeter, it will most probably read 12volts

but its not the voltage you need to be reading it is the current capacity, and unless you want to spend £100 + for a specific piece of kit that you will only use once its not worth it,

so the best thing to do is change the battery and then in 4 years time, change it again

also you have to find the END STATION its a plain white box with all the cabling going to it, it could be hidden any were in the house, by the fuse box, in the loft, in the airing cupboard
the battery will be in there

 

[Syx]

Thanks Oasis - I think I may not have made myself clear previously so for that I apologise.

The main alarm panel (that' I've referred to as such in earlier posts I think!) is in the garage.
This feeds up to an extender box in the loft as well as half the PIRs.
From this extender box, I've got connections to the other half of the PIRs in the house.

Hopefully that makes sense. In any case, I've located all of the panels.

I imagine the reason for that design rather than all feeds back to the main panel is that it's much easier to route cables down from the loft to each of the rooms than it is starting from the garage due to the layout of the house.

If I can't check the battery (as I agree, forking out for something I'll use occasionally doesn't make sense compared to the cost of the battery) then looks like I'll just be replacing it in 4 years time regardless!

Once again, many thanks - I think I have everything I need thanks to your very generous assistance. Wish there were more folk like yourself around in life!

 

[Europlex]

Steady now, he'll get so big headed, we'll never hear the end of it.

 

[plugwash]

All you really need to test a battery is a multimeter and an appropriate resistor.

 

[oasistechnical]

Plugwash
and that will tell you what?

i used to have, back in the day, a box made up with three LED`s, that was supposed to let you know over an hour what the battery capacity was like,

i personally found it useless>

but i have now, and have had for few years, an intelligent battery tester from a well know company, and i have found it to be a seriously useful tool.

 

[Syx]

Gentlemen,

I would like to report a success!

Alarm rerouted successfully - I did accidentally short the power supply to the expander (which blew the DC Aux fuse and set the alarm off...) but once that was resolved the rest went lovely and smooth. I even managed to sort out the vocaliser to dial the correct numbers. Battery replaced at the same time too; and now I've done it once I've got no issues doing it the next time.

Thank you so much for your help! Couldn't have done it without you.

 

[oasistechnical]

well theres a happy camper !!!!