Re-painting shed - Suggestions / Recommendations

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Hello members,

I have moved house and can see there is going to be some good amount of DIY required. I did a quick search on the forum below and see number of options for the shed repainting. I would be interested to hear guidance on simple option to start with the below.

I inherited this Shed in garden and it need some attention. I have got photos of current state and wondering what is the best way to maintain this. For now only looking to protect the wood with no change to color.

Should I go straight spray paint with fence on top or does some pre work is required? I currently do not have any tools. It will be either borrow or buy. Electric point is possible with extension cables just in case if there are electric tools which will make things faster.

Thanks in advance for your insights,
Gnans

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Difficult to tell form pics but seems in reasonable condition. As a temporary measure cover the holes with wood and/or filler to make it water and wind tight. Sand down and overpaint/stain.

It won't be pretty but might last a few more years. Or bite the bullet and buy a new shed, especially if your storing valuable equipment which needs protection.

Blup
 
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it looks like it was quite a good Shiplap shed when new. The green is due to damp. This will be because it has no gutters, encouraging water to run down the walls, and may be in a sheltered area that does not dry quickly. You can buy shiplap to replace any damaged boards. Check the size. Refelt the roof if there is any suspicion of leaks or damage.

The lack of a stain makes it worse. Shed and fence stains are not paint, they leave a waxy, water-repellent film with a decorative colour added. You can buy shed and fence stains from reputable makers and own brands quite cheaply. Your shed is quite old so it does not need one formulated for planed (i.e. smooth, shiny) wood. It is fast to apply with the biggest synthetic brush you can find. Stir it very very very thoroughly. Then stir it again. Keep stirring it while you work. Wear overalls or work nude. Apply at least two coats, on the same day. If you let it harden it will repel further coats until it has weathered. With age, the stain loses its shine and water repellency, and you can recoat. Sanding and stripping is not necessary, it just needs to be clean.

Spraying is not a good idea.

You need to clean off the green first. A jetspray/power washer will do this. Stand back as far as you can because it will also erode the surface of the wood.

Fit gutters and a downpipe. A water butt if you like, otherwise lead the pipe to a pit where the water can soak in without flooding the garden.

look at the bottom edges of the shed which will rot first due to damp if they are in contact with the ground or there are no gutters.

p.s.
the "T" hinges fitted are rubbish. Replace them with 12" or longer galvanised hook-and-band hinges. You can fit a better hasp and staple too. The Squire 660 padlock is truly weatherproof. Others aren't.
 
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Thank you Blup and JohnD.

JohnD - Yes the shed is under the shade of a tree and as you spotted no gutters. I will look into first wash and do the fence stain.
 
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looking at the safety sheet, I see that's a wood preservative, "Contains Permethrin 0.18% and Propiconazole 0.5% w/w." in a White Spirit solvent base.

hence it is more expensive than a plain water based fence stain.

A better product, if it's worth it.

keep it off your skin and eyes

I use something similar on my joiner-made gate, but not on the fence which is lower value (and larger).

I think I see some rot damaged sections on your shed, so I'd cut them out and use a preservative on the new timber. I think you will need to strip off any old coatings so it will soak in. The jet washer will strip back to bare timber if you use it more intensively.
 
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Shed will be used to store tools. For now cleaned outside and applied fence stain. Thanks all for the inputs.


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