Re-plastering advice- please help!

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Hi there, I'm new to the forum but am after a little advice if at all possible? 

Being both young and female unfortunately results in me falling victim to numerous unsubstantiated suggestions for remedial work to be carried out in my new property - and me treading water as I try to figure out the science behind the conflicting opinions and who to believe. 

Being introduced to 'rising dampness' just a few weeks ago I gullibly allowed a salesman to convince me that all the plaster needed hacking off the internal and external walls and a cream injection damp course was needed. He quoted me up £5k to do the work. I got three more quotes in - they were all in the same ballpark. It's a big house, but my budget doesn't match it.

So I set to work. I have removed all the plaster, cleared out the very congested cavities, and fitted a traditional DPM into the inner leaf of all the external-facing cavity walls of my end terrace property. I have also injected Dryzone into the outside external leaf and all other interior walls. After doing the work I believe there was never a problem with rising damp, but rather the original damp course was breached from the clogged cavities. 

Obviously I can see that the traditional DPM provides a physical barrier against the rising damp that was diagnosed, but I'm a little dubious of the effectiveness of the Dryzone. I called the helpline and I was informed that after a couple of days I should see a change in colour of the mortar. Other than a slight darkening of the mortar directly around each hole there is no other change to the mortar. I am now wary that I have spent £350 simply injecting lines of 'mayonnaise' into my walls as I don't see how these points can meet up and form an effective barrier.

I am now faced with re-plastering the walls. All the literature I've read suggests I use a 3:1 sand cement mix to essentially render and seal the inside of the house. But the outside is rendered and I'm worried that the house won't be able to breathe if I do this. 

I have added 9"x6" plastic louver air bricks every 1.5m in all external walls as I read the original terracotta ones were only 20% efficient. The sub floor ventilation under the suspended wooden floors and airflow inside the cavities should now be ok, but I still don't want to suffocate the walls and stop moisture from drying out. 

Please could you advise the best re-plastering material for me to finish the job? I have asked the 'professionals' but I'm just so fed up of salesmen looking at me with dollar signs in their eyes!
 
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well done for getting stuck in! 5k!! i haven't seen the job but sounds like they're having you at it!! RObbing s*ds!

dryzone is a good product, the cream dissipates along the mortar line to create a bridge, so long as you haven't exceeded the recommended maximum spacing for injection holes.

i'd recommend rendering the outside for now then leaving the internal walls to dry out fully the render those, as it's a cavity wall though and you've fixed the cause of the damp i don't see why you can't use a normal Gypsum plaster so long as the wall inside has fully dried.
 
What were the original symptoms? Why do you think you have rising damp?
 
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If your house is old, say early 1900s then sand and cement render and chemical damp proof is the wrong way to go.
 
Listen to Peaps - have a damp house instead.
 
I believe the house was built in the 1930's/40's - why does this make a difference as to fixing the damp??

The reason I have installed a traditional DPM on all the inner leaf cavity walls is because I had to remove the bricks anyway to clear the cavity so it made sense to go the extra mile.

I don't believe that the problem was actually rising damp as was diagnosed, I believe the original damp proof course was breached due to the cavity being blocked. Either way I have cleared the blocked cavity and installed a new DPC throughout - "belt and braces"!

I now need to know the best thing to do regarding replastering. I wish I had the time to let the bricks fully dry out but I have read this takes 9 months and I can't wait that long, I have to get a tenant in before that time.

Would it be best to keep the cavity clear and well ventilated and then simply apply the sand cement render as so many damp proofing companies advise?
 
No problem doing that as you have cured the "problem " so float and set it inside and but use a weeker mix 6-1-1 for scratch and float. You may get some effloresence salts appearing as it dries out but just brush it off every now and again till wall dries out. Paint the walls dont hang any paper on it till it all dries out properly...I think the drying out times for a wet wall is 1mm a day (1 month for 1 inch) so it will take 4 months for the internal brickwork to dry out...and the weaker mix (float and set) will help to let it dry out....Also dont put furniture or wardrobes close to the wall as this will cause mildew because it needs an air flow to stop condensation. Maybe an idea to put a dehumidifier in the room for a while to pull the water out of the walls/....
 
good constructive advice Roy

Cheers mucka ,,,

You are now also giving good advice on this forum . Well done ;)

You are an up and coming modern day plasterer and you have got the benefit of learning about all the new and up to dates products that are coming on the market. But you have also learned old skills that will still carry on and work along side modern methods.. As long as there are old properties there will always be a need for plasterers...If I was you I would get myself clued up with the modern polymer plasters (K rend and the like ) that is the future of external plastering ,(and maybe internal ) at a later stage...
 
Thanks Roy! :D

That's my next thing to get onto K-rend etc.

Just got myself onto the 'approved applicators' list for a 'new' lime and woodfibre board insulation system that can be used inside and out, not much of it around yet as they've only just received their BBA but i'm at the ground level. ;)

sorry to detract from the thread OP
 
No problem doing that as you have cured the "problem " so float and set it inside and but use a weeker mix 6-1-1 for scratch and float. You may get some effloresence salts appearing as it dries out but just brush it off every now and again till wall dries out. Paint the walls dont hang any paper on it till it all dries out properly...I think the drying out times for a wet wall is 1mm a day (1 month for 1 inch) so it will take 4 months for the internal brickwork to dry out...and the weaker mix (float and set) will help to let it dry out....Also dont put furniture or wardrobes close to the wall as this will cause mildew because it needs an air flow to stop condensation. Maybe an idea to put a dehumidifier in the room for a while to pull the water out of the walls/....

Isn't the 6.1.1 mix redundant now we have hydraulic limes..? Cement was added to non-hydraulic lime to give it hydraulic properties allowing for a quicker set....
 
No problem doing that as you have cured the "problem " so float and set it inside and but use a weeker mix 6-1-1 for scratch and float. You may get some effloresence salts appearing as it dries out but just brush it off every now and again till wall dries out. Paint the walls dont hang any paper on it till it all dries out properly...I think the drying out times for a wet wall is 1mm a day (1 month for 1 inch) so it will take 4 months for the internal brickwork to dry out...and the weaker mix (float and set) will help to let it dry out....Also dont put furniture or wardrobes close to the wall as this will cause mildew because it needs an air flow to stop condensation. Maybe an idea to put a dehumidifier in the room for a while to pull the water out of the walls/....

Isn't the 6.1.1 mix redundant now we have hydraulic limes..? Cement was added to non-hydraulic lime to give it hydraulic properties allowing for a quicker set....

Always worked for me. I seem to remember in one post that you have also recommended using a 6-1-1 mix :rolleyes:
 
No problem doing that as you have cured the "problem " so float and set it inside and but use a weeker mix 6-1-1 for scratch and float. You may get some effloresence salts appearing as it dries out but just brush it off every now and again till wall dries out. Paint the walls dont hang any paper on it till it all dries out properly...I think the drying out times for a wet wall is 1mm a day (1 month for 1 inch) so it will take 4 months for the internal brickwork to dry out...and the weaker mix (float and set) will help to let it dry out....Also dont put furniture or wardrobes close to the wall as this will cause mildew because it needs an air flow to stop condensation. Maybe an idea to put a dehumidifier in the room for a while to pull the water out of the walls/....

Isn't the 6.1.1 mix redundant now we have hydraulic limes..? Cement was added to non-hydraulic lime to give it hydraulic properties allowing for a quicker set....

Always worked for me. I seem to remember in one post that you have also recommended using a 6-1-1 mix :rolleyes:

I have yes, off the self lime from suppliers is bagged lime and needs cement in it :rolleyes:

I have also said that 6.1.1 mixes have proved to fail over time

;)
 
No problem doing that as you have cured the "problem " so float and set it inside and but use a weeker mix 6-1-1 for scratch and float. You may get some effloresence salts appearing as it dries out but just brush it off every now and again till wall dries out. Paint the walls dont hang any paper on it till it all dries out properly...I think the drying out times for a wet wall is 1mm a day (1 month for 1 inch) so it will take 4 months for the internal brickwork to dry out...and the weaker mix (float and set) will help to let it dry out....Also dont put furniture or wardrobes close to the wall as this will cause mildew because it needs an air flow to stop condensation. Maybe an idea to put a dehumidifier in the room for a while to pull the water out of the walls/....

Isn't the 6.1.1 mix redundant now we have hydraulic limes..? Cement was added to non-hydraulic lime to give it hydraulic properties allowing for a quicker set....

Always worked for me. I seem to remember in one post that you have also recommended using a 6-1-1 mix :rolleyes:

I have yes, off the self lime from suppliers is bagged lime and needs cement in it :rolleyes:

I have also said that 6.1.1 mixes have proved to fail over time

;)

I think everything fails after time. Nothing lasts forever except maybe friendships.. :)
 

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