reclaimed brick garden path - pointing ideas

[mane1034]

Hi

We have put together a garden path - we were thinking to use easy joint to fill jointing gaps. However, as area is too big it is really expensive. I have lot of sharp sand left over. Will it be faesible to use sharp sand and cement and do pointing. Any ideas will be appreciated.

 

[Charlie George]

May have been easier to fill joints as you went along, trying to keep it clean now with sand and cement will depend on your skill.
You could part fill with semi dry mix 4 -1 and lightly water then top up with easy joint, you can use sharp sand for pointing, some prefer building sand for smoothness.
I would also run tape or some restraint along edge trim to prevent mortar/resin running out, looks good by the way.

Jim

 

[mane1034]

Thanks

So put dry sand and cement and leave some space for jointing compound? Any idea how much should I fill?



Area is around 40 meter in length. Width is 0.8 meter


How much jointing component I need?


Any recommended jointing stuff?

 

[lonner]

Easier way is to mix 4:1 mix soft sand and cement.
Make it damp so if you squeeze a hand full it stays in a ball.

Then get a bit of ply or something about 5-6 mm thick and 150 mm long.
You then put a shovel full on the bricks and use the dabber to pack it into the joints.
Important that this goes in tight.
Finish with a pointing iron or trowel.
Sweep off excess with a soft brush.
Then fine spray with a hose or watering can with a fine rose.
So it gets nice and damp.
You can run the pointing iron over the joints again but not usually necessary.
Leave to set.

This area will cost you 3-4 bags of building sand and a bag of OP cement.
Dont use sharp sand or masonry cement.
So about £15- £20 quid to do

Hth

ps that will look lovely when pointed.

 

[Charlie George]

lonner why is sharp sand a no no? i always thought it stronger than building sand.
Jim

 

[lonner]

lonner why is sharp sand a no no? i always thought it stronger than building sand.
Jim

it tends to crumble ,no good for pointing as it doesn't hold the water so goes runny. So it runs out of the joints.
its a bedding sand or screed ideally ..
Lots do try and use it but its not very good.

your idea, part fill and use joint filler is ok but a full pointed joint will be a better finish ,tho its a pita slow job.

 

[mane1034]

Thanks


What is OP CEMENT? Where to buy?

Any link will help me.

 

[lonner]

Thanks


What is OP CEMENT? Where to buy?

Any link will help me.

OP = ordinary Portland cement.
Available everywhere.

this will be ok as will any similar products.

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Blue-Circl...rA&gclsrc=ds&dclid=CIaPt-q5qdwCFcOH1Qod4fwB4w

 

[Charlie George]

I know its a PITA to point that Deep, seen many a job ruined by bad pointing,lots of nooks and crannys in them brick .
As it happens i also use building sand to point indian sandstone, i use it slightly wet and use finger trowels to press mortar in, not the quickest but strongest method, i suggested that way as sharp sand is more forgiving for a novice to keep surface clean.
Mane1034 make sure you take your time and not ruin your good work, and when lonner says a fine spray he means a fine spray.
Easy joint is only suitable for porous bedding too and quite a grainy finish,also don't use dry mix good luck.
Jim

 

[mane1034]

Great few more questions:

These questions might seems silly but I have never done this type of work in the past

What is Dabber?

How long it takes to settle the pointing?

What type of brush should I use to polish or clean area after pointing? Any link will help.

Lastly. This morning I followed the advice and have already put dry sharp sand and cement mixed to half filled the joints so they are around half filled. I then pressed them and watered. So joints in whole area are half filled now.


Should I wait couple of days before do final pointing using the approach you suggested?


Thanks again.

 

[lonner]

Right,ok
If the bricks are half full No problem as 15-20 mm depth will be ok.
A dabber ...its as i described earlier, a piece of thin wood or plastic ect about 6mm thick and 150mm long, it needs to be about 100 mm wide so you can hold it in your hand.

you use it to push the jointing mix about and use it to pack the voids.
its a lot easier than a pointing iron.
the iron is for finishing,so you get that nice smooth pointed look.

Important bit !! Only use a shovel full at a time..and check your mix every new shovel load as it will dry very quickly this weather.

if it was my path id soak the path first thing to get that sharp sand wet through.
the bricks should dry in an hour this weather ,then crack on.

once its done " you can do it over a couple of days" but wet the lower mix if you do.
so once its done a day or 2 and it will be solid.
it wont settle.

soft brush would be a dust pan type hand brush with soft bristles.
or a big fence painting brush ect, avoid anything with stiff bristles as this will ruin the pointing.


Ill keep looking in if you have anything else to ask.

 

[Charlie George]

who said use dry mix? just use soft brush to clean, and can point anytime but the sooner the better.

 

[mane1034]

Okay great Lonner

I will give a go tomorrow. Hopefully by tomorrow my dry mixed with water would be settled so I can do pointing on top of it.

There is so much help available here.....

Thanks again everyone

 

[mane1034]

Here is update....

Manage to point 2 meter square area.

It is time consuming task but I think I can do it.


Once I have pressed down all damp mixed stuff and then pointed using steel jointer then how much time should I wait to clean/polish area?

I waited for 30 mins but brush was taking stuff fron pointing.

Should I wait good 2 to 3 hours?


Thanks

 

[lonner]

Very light sweep off after you use the pointing iron.
i assume your sweeping oFf Before damping down?F
No good doing it when wet after spraying