I have just refurbished a reclaimed radiator but I am unable to remove the hexagonal screw-in stopper in order to replace it with a valved version I have. It seems to be set solid in the threads. I have tried with a heavy, long spanner with lots of leverage, but it does not seem to shift. Does anyone have any easy clues, please?
RECLAIMED RADIATOR
- Thread starter mngray
- Start date
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breezer
dont buy reclaimed radiators.
how do you know what its like inside?
it may have a leak / pin hole
they rust from inside out
try wd40
how do you know what its like inside?
it may have a leak / pin hole
they rust from inside out
try wd40
try heat ie blowlamp usually works for me
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Be carfull if fitting onto a sealed system, one of my customers supplied one and when I fitted and pressurised it, it only got to 0.3 bar and it blew a 1/4 inc hole out the end of it, I did warn them beforhand to cover myself as they purchased it with out asking me first.
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breezer
goes back to what i said
Pedant.......... you were lucky. I heard of an installer who warned the customer what he wanted was bad news, but the customer insisted. When it didn't work the customer wouldn't pay. The installer took the customer to court. "Did you know it wouldn't work?" asked the judge (or equivalent). "Yes", said the installer. "Then why did you do it?' asked the judge. Case went in favour of the customer and the installer had to remove it at his expense and pay court costs.
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Just goes to show what a bag of crap the law and order in this country is.
Anyone who calls himself a plumber should have a pressure tester. Otherwise he can't do any work on water mains in accordance with the regs. (So there). They pump up to 40-50 bar.
No guarantee, but if it's going to leak at CH pressure it'll probably leak at 10 bar, which it should otherwise hold. Put a bit of All Purpose Flash inthe water for the test - lowers the surface tension and finds leaks better.
If you're not happy about the customer, pump away until it leaks anyway, say it started at 2 bar and charge like a rhino for your technical approach
No guarantee, but if it's going to leak at CH pressure it'll probably leak at 10 bar, which it should otherwise hold. Put a bit of All Purpose Flash inthe water for the test - lowers the surface tension and finds leaks better.
If you're not happy about the customer, pump away until it leaks anyway, say it started at 2 bar and charge like a rhino for your technical approach
10 bar! Wow! New radiators are only tested at works to 7 bar, except Thermalrads if they are still made, which were finned tube in ventilated box and were tested to 15 bar or more. Test pressures are normally 1.5 times the maximum working pressure.
Don't pressure test anything in my house please Chris, I'll have wet carpets in every room!
Don't pressure test anything in my house please Chris, I'll have wet carpets in every room!
You're right, 7 it is in the factory. I was thinking water mains which is what I last tested. Also the radvalves I usually use are tested to 10 bar.
I'd go more than 1.5 times on an old rad because it's cold. (In fact I always start with air on pipework for obvious reasons) Given the old rad, if it leaked at a joint you can do something about it so I'd certainly go high. I realise that if it's on a gravity system it might see no more than 1 bar in practice but "probably get away without a leak" isn't my motto! It would be quite likely to let air in rather than water out. There's a case on a different forum where a guy's combi system lets air in unless he keeps the pressure above 1.4 bar, but it doesn't leak water out at 3 bar.
Word for those experimenting - I've had a bung come out of a pipe with AIR in it at 6 bar. I thought it might go so I was a bit watchful, but didn't expect such a big dent in the wall. Water is safe!
I'd go more than 1.5 times on an old rad because it's cold. (In fact I always start with air on pipework for obvious reasons) Given the old rad, if it leaked at a joint you can do something about it so I'd certainly go high. I realise that if it's on a gravity system it might see no more than 1 bar in practice but "probably get away without a leak" isn't my motto! It would be quite likely to let air in rather than water out. There's a case on a different forum where a guy's combi system lets air in unless he keeps the pressure above 1.4 bar, but it doesn't leak water out at 3 bar.
Word for those experimenting - I've had a bung come out of a pipe with AIR in it at 6 bar. I thought it might go so I was a bit watchful, but didn't expect such a big dent in the wall. Water is safe!
It would have to be a 3 storey house with the tank in the loft for radiators to see 1 bar. (34 feet).
Air pressure testing is risky. The energy stored is significant. Pressure testing in factories is done hydrauliclly to minimise the risk. Unless it's in a protected area.
Air pressure testing is risky. The energy stored is significant. Pressure testing in factories is done hydrauliclly to minimise the risk. Unless it's in a protected area.
"It would have to be a 3 storey house with the tank in the loft for radiators to see 1 bar"
No - surprisingly the pulse of pressure when the pump starts is often over that, on top of the static pressure. Thats what I meant.
Air testing isn't risky its downright dangerous - hence comment about the dent in the wall. Not something I'd do to much of a pressure in an occupied building. I worked out the speed of the bung above - about 40 mph, which might kill you if it hit your temple.
No - surprisingly the pulse of pressure when the pump starts is often over that, on top of the static pressure. Thats what I meant.
Air testing isn't risky its downright dangerous - hence comment about the dent in the wall. Not something I'd do to much of a pressure in an occupied building. I worked out the speed of the bung above - about 40 mph, which might kill you if it hit your temple.
I specifically prohibit pneumatic testing in the specifications that I write - I allow a 10 psi above atmospheric for bubble test but all other pressure testing must be hydraulic. There is an HSE guidance note (GN4, I think) for pressure testing which includes such things as building sandbag bunkers to surround any pneumatic tests. As Oilman says the stored energy in a section of pipework at 6 bar is huge and can be deadly, people have been killed underestimating compressed air. Go careful Chris! This really is a case of "Don't try this at home"! Sorry to lecture
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