Removal and repositioning of WC.

[Benny_the_ball-valve]

My next-door-neighbour is planning to retile her bathroom. In order that she can tile under the WC the WC will have to be removed and then put back in place – not a problem because she has a second loo.

What is a bit confusing is that the WC is one of those box-shaped back-to-the-wall types with the cistern concealed behind a partition. It is fixed to the floor and the wall with adhesive. What I am confused by are the nuts positioned laterally into the unit about 10cms from the floor. Anyone have any idea as to what these screw into? Also are there any general difficulties that I might encounter dealing with this type of WC?

Any help appreciated.

 

[Paul Barker]

You are describing the fixing bolts in the side of the pan. Behind there is a platic l shaped bracket with many holes in one per side. These are fixed to the floor first, then the pan is pushed back onto the Multiquick Connector and the water inliet pipe. Then it is fixed securely by bolts through the pan into whichever holes in the L brackets happen to line up. It is not unusual to find mortar or bonding or silicone ro no nails or gripfil under the pan as additional support. That would mean you must tile around it instead. Take out the bolts to establish where you stand.

First though you have to take out the two side cheeks at the back/bottom and the veneered wheetabix front to the cystern which should pull up and out, so that you can get your hands behind the pan to prize it apartf rom the outlet and inlet connectors.

I would leave the cystern as is.

 

[Benny_the_ball-valve]

You are describing the fixing bolts in the side of the pan. Behind there is a platic l shaped bracket with many holes in one per side. These are fixed to the floor first, then the pan is pushed back onto the Multiquick Connector and the water inliet pipe. Then it is fixed securely by bolts through the pan into whichever holes in the L brackets happen to line up. It is not unusual to find mortar or bonding or silicone ro no nails or gripfil under the pan as additional support. That would mean you must tile around it instead. Take out the bolts to establish where you stand.

First though you have to take out the two side cheeks at the back/bottom and the veneered wheetabix front to the cystern which should pull up and out, so that you can get your hands behind the pan to prize it apartf rom the outlet and inlet connectors.

I would leave the cystern as is.

Thanks Paul, very interesting. What I am a bit confused by is that you say I must tile around it rather than underneath though currently the WC is fixed upon the existing tiles. Why should this be a problem? What I did not explain was that there has been some sort of flood in the bathroom which has damaged the floorboards which will need replacing. Following this the plan is to then lay the new tiles and then for the WC to go back down on top of the new surface. I am not doing the re-flooring or tiling just the WC work. Any problems with this idea?

 

[Paul Barker]

I just meant if it's bedded on something sticky you'll probably break it trying to get it out. It probably isn't if it's on tiles.

When removing old sanitary wear to refit a bathroom, the toilet pan often has to be smashed.

My least favourite customers are the ones who sell their old bathroom suite.