Removing & refitting bottom row of slates to replace fas

[ilikewatchingtv]

Hi all,

I don't have a clue what I'm doing and wonder if anyone can offer any advice on the following!

I need to replace a rotten fascia on my slate roofed single storey kitchen. I have taken a look, and established that the bottom row of slates are laid at right angles to the others, and nailed to the top of the fascia at each side.

The best option I can think of is to cut through the nails fixing the bottom row of slates (I can get a hacksaw blade into the gap to achieve this), then remove the slates and existing fascia. I assume that I could refit the bottom row of slates using copper tingles fixed to the top of the replacement fascia.

The problem is that I have found a similar thread in which an experienced poster says that the method above isn't possible:
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=90414
However, I don't quite understand why it can't be done! Does anyone have any advice/opinions?

Cheers!

 

[palaceray]

What you are suggesting is possible but it is not the right way to do it.

THE correct way would be to strip out patches of slates in triangles starting with 1 slate in maybe the fifth course 2 in the 4th 3 in the 3rd and so on.

Change the facia and then replace the slates and fix the slates in the 5th course with proper repair clips.

 

[datarebal]

Agree it's possible... A thought that might make it easier on your self would be put a dab of adhesive under the first full course and the eave slate, sticking them together. (dont over do it) let the adhesive go off. cut the nails as you mentioned, carefully remove fascia. The eave slate should stay in postion but may sag as the fascia comes away.
Attached the tingles offer up the new fascia..job done.
Unfortunately for you the eave slate is incorrectly fixed anyway.
proper job would be strip outon a splay.

 

[scottishslater]

Dont use any sticky crap all your doing is joining all the slates together and they will fall out in one big clump. If your wanting into the fascia start at the third course from the gutter get a slate ripper and slide it up to take the third course out this will let you into the next two courses with ease when re-instating you can easily nail the under-eave course and the next to courses now the trick when you get to the third course is to buy some slate hooks you put them between the slate of the second course when you slide up third course you guide it onto your hooks and the hooks last as long as the nails they being laying on hooks in France for donkeys years. heres a link so you can see proper professional Slater hooks http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004QHGA...de=asn&creative=22218&creativeASIN=B004QHGAMK

 

[datarebal]

of course they wont fall out in a lump..he wont be touching the first course these will keep the eave slate in placewhile the fascia is dealt with..but maybe a little adhesive will exceed a scottish budget....

 

[scottishslater]

I can do everything i just says without sticking one slate,SLATERS dont stick anything

 

[ilikewatchingtv]

Thanks so much for all the replys!

Have decided that I will do this the "proper" way and remove the tiles above to sort this problem, however - I still have a couple of questions - would really appreciate some more advice!

As the eave slates are currently nailed to the fascia, what should I nail them to when I refit them? do I need to add another batten slightly above the fascia? If so, the fixing holes in the slates will be in the wrong place, - do I need to make new holes? how do you make holes in slates?

The current fascia is fixed to the wooden lintel above the window below, however the fascia slightly overhangs the window frame - should the fascia end where the window frame starts?

 

[scottishslater]

Video for you on how to work slate properly post a picture of your project ill help you with it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xocFLCLO10

 

[scottishslater]

note guy in video is using an american slate hammer/cutter British tools are slightly different you can pick up a set of traditional slate working tools for about 50 pounds as much as a drill if not cheaper also every slate should be holed from the back/bed of the slate this will give you a counter sunk hole due to the way slate flakes also any slate you cut should be done from the back this will give you the edge require