Best way to remove just a double row of slates (vertical row)?

[DIYNotIan]

Hi folks

Following my recent threads, I've started work today and am removing slates at a wall abutment to put in lead soakers and flashing.

Am I missing something obvious or is my only option to use a slate ripper and then use tingles (or hooks) when I put them back on?

I had planned to remove two or three vertical rows of slates, and - stupidly perhaps - thought that by starting at the top I could access all nails to remove them without a ripper, and when putting the slates back on re-nail them to the battens. But now I'm up there it seems in order to that I would have to remove the slates in an ever increasing triangle to access all the nails and battens.

Am I overlooking something? Or is a ripper (to take off) and tingles/hooks (to put back on) the only option to avoid removing a tonne of slates?

Many thanks

PS - from what I've read I'd favour using hooks rather than tingles.

 

[DAZB]

Good practice is to strip down the triangle and refix with two nails per slate so only the last slate has a tingle. You can do it how you like if it unfeasible for you the traditional way but you will see the hooks if you use them instead.

 

[datarebal]

A ripper or slate saw.
Then slate back up from the bottom .
Hall hooks are pretty neat need be

 

[DIYNotIan]

Good practice is to strip down the triangle and refix with two nails per slate so only the last slate has a tingle. You can do it how you like if it unfeasible for you the traditional way but you will see the hooks if you use them instead.

That makes sense, thank you. But due to inexperience and time restraints I think I'm going to stick with just removing a couple of vertical rows. On the plus side, the roof is not that visible. And it is quite sheltered and well protected from bad weather.

I've got some more questions if you don't mind please....

- Where I can only access one nail hole in a slate, could I add a second nail at the head of the slate so that it ends up being centre *and* head nailed but on one side only? To stop slate rotating?

- Come to think of it, if I centre nail slates at the abutment, the nail will go through the lead soaker beneath. Is this normal/acceptable? In one video I watched, the diagram showed the slates at the abutment being head nailed only. Not sure if that was just the graphic, or whether it is standard to JUST head nail these to avoid making holes in the lead?

- In either of the above scenarios, should I also add a hook/tingle as well for belts and braces? If centre and head nail is acceptable, would that be enough without a hook/tingle?

Many thanks

 

[DIYNotIan]

I've got the slates off and my battens are only 35mm wide, so I don't think my head nailing idea is a very good one.

I'm going to use tingles where the roof cannot be seen from below. Is it usual to use code 3 or 4 for lead tingles?

Cheers

 

[datarebal]

Back the battens up from underneath then re hole .
Tingles , code 3 is no good . Thicker the better

 

[DIYNotIan]

Tingles , code 3 is no good . Thicker the better

OK, thanks for confirming. Have got code 4 so will use that.

Back the battens up from underneath then re hole .

Really sorry, but I don't follow you. Would you mind explaining?

Many thanks

 

[catlad]

Can you not use the rafter for a second fix? A bit lake now I guess but sometimes it is possible to replace soakers without removing the slates!

 

[datarebal]

As Jo put some additional batten tight under the existing battens the re hole the slates .
Also , as above soakers can be replaced without a
Slate removal. But that time has passed.