Replace outside light

[welshgaz]

I've just moved house and am looking to install outside security lights. At the moment, I have one 'bulkhead' style light above the back door. What I would like is to add a pir light to both the back and front and retaining (with a smarter new) the light above the back door.

I know this current light is fed from the downstairs lighting circuit, and there's a switch indoors for this. Ideally with the new installation I would like the front and back lights to work independantly and from their own p
PIRs, but also to be able to switch them on/off as this would allow me to take advantage of the facility to have a light(s) on permanently - eg if the BBQ goes on a little late!! I would also like to switch the outside bulkhead light independantly too.

Right, think I explained that right!

Am I right in thinking that I can put a weatherproof junction box fed by what is currently the feed to the outside light, then send this three ways to each 'new' light then put a weatherproof switch on the live feeds for each light? I'm not on about huge lights here by the way I've only got a small garden & drive!!

Thanks in advance,
Gaz

 

[Chri5]

Depends what you mean by the feed from the existing light- the switch won't have (well it might on a term block) have a LNE.

Since the lights are likely to be at height would it not be easier to supply them via a 3a switched f/spurs adjacent to existing 1st floor ring sockets ?

The switched spur will give you the option to off the PIR or (subject to getting the lamp PIR type) do the PIR over riding permanently on via the "within 3 secs on / off / on" which sets the lamps to stay on as a flood light without the PIR timer off happening.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part-p

 

[welshgaz]

Depends what you mean by the feed from the existing light- the switch won't have (well it might on a term block) have a LNE.

Sorry, by this I mean removing the existing light and connecting the feed from inside into a weatherproof junction box. From here can I connect the feeds for the three lights and their witches.

Unfortunately I didn't think about this earlier so the upstairs rooms have been plastered and papered so I really don't want to go drilling holes in the wall so adding something to the existing light is really my only option here.

Thanks for the replies so far.

Gaz

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Unfortunately I didn't think about this earlier so the upstairs rooms have been plastered and papered so I really don't want to go drilling holes in the wall

What sort of flooring?

so adding something to the existing light is really my only option here.

If there is no neutral at the switch then that is not an option, so if it really is your only one then you can't have any more lights.

 

[welshgaz]

The feed outside is via twin and earth cable.

Another idea might be to use a spare 'way' on my CU. Would this ne a better idea? Would I fuse it at 6A? I take it that it would not need to be RCD protected.

Unfortunatly taking the power from upstairs is a total non starter.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The feed outside is via twin and earth cable.

From where?

Post a photo of the back of the switch.

Another idea might be to use a spare 'way' on my CU. Would this ne a better idea?

Possibly - what you're doing is notifiable anyway, so from that PoV it makes no odds.

Would I fuse it at 6A?

Yup

I take it that it would not need to be RCD protected.

Only if the cables are clipped to the surface of the walls - if you bury them, and don't use earthed metal conduit, then they should be on an RCD.

IEE Article on 17th Edition requirements for concealed cables.

 

[welshgaz]

Untitled

• welshgaz
• 24 Jul 2009
• 1

This is the back of the light switch. The left (nearest) switch switches the outside light, the other the kitchen light (there is a second switch the other side of the kitchen).

Thanks
Gaz

 

[Chri5]

There's no neutral at that switch.

What about taking the LNE via the loft level lighting for the 1st floor, then comming down via the airing cupboard ?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The feed outside is via twin and earth cable.

i.e. neutral & switched live only. No permanent live to take to another switch. There is a permanent live at the switch, of course, but no neutral.

Another idea might be to use a spare 'way' on my CU. Would this ne a better idea?

If you really cannot get at the lighting circuit then this is now your only option.

Well - that and not having more lights...

 

[welshgaz]

Oh well thank you all for your helpful and quick replies.

I take it that if I was just to add two PIR lights to the existing circuit, I could just wire them in parallel via a weatherproof junction box. They wouldn't be individually switched but life's never perfect!

Thanks again
Gaz

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I thought you couldn't get at the existing circuit?

 

[welshgaz]

Yeah my plan was to remove the existing bulkhead light and replace that, then add two PIR based lights to cover the back and front of the house. Ideally I wanted to be able to switch all lights independantly so that one some or all could be lit all of the time.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If you do that then the PIRs on the other lights will only turn them on if you've got the existing light on. When that's off the new lights will never come on, no matter what you have in the way of switches or PIRs for them.