Replacement MDPE water main advice

[SouthDrive]

Hello

The internal stop cock in my house is seized, it's connected (internally) to the other end of the rusty steel pipe in the picture, I decided to replace it and I had a couple of questions before I started.

Q1 -what is the appropriate way to install the replacement mdpe pipe? should It be run through ducting, and should the ducting be insulated?

Q2 - any advice on maintaining the DPC / DPM where the replacement pipe will penetrate it ?

Thanks for any suggestions or experience
Will

 

[cdbe]

There are regs about the pipe being at least 750mm down but not much point as the existing doesn't seem to be. Internally it should be ducted and insulated if it's a suspended floor. Presumably it'll just go in the same route as the old one.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

If its easier, look at the Groundbreaker Insuduct. Will allow you to bring the new service in above ground, through the wall, old steel service can then be abandoned, assuming it is cut off at the supply end. https://groundbreaker.co.uk/product/insuduct/

 

[SouthDrive]

Thanks for the advice Hugh I actually had an insuduct system and sent it back, the footing projects significantly beyond the outer skin and the installation of it would have been a bit messy.

Cdbe
Internally I have what appears to be a solid concrete floor. (1950s ISH house I think).
Ducting size would be approx 3"?
Is this something you can buy off the shelf or is it a make it yourself sort of thing with expanding foam ?

Thank you

 

[SouthDrive]

Okay, looks like Armaflex is the thing,
I'll try to put some pictures up when I'm finished,
Thanks for the tips

 

[endecotp]

I love how the connectors for your water meter seem optimised for bypassing the meter.....

 

[cdbe]

Where are you going? Through that lower hole and up? Realistically, given that it's inside and less likely to freeze than the rest of the pipe I'd just tape some lagging round it and backfill the hole below the slab with sand.

 

[SouthDrive]

Hey Cdbe,
Yea, as you suggest I'm going to follow the same path that the existing pipe is taking.
I'll do my best to patch the wall up as well,

May I ask why you would use sand rather than cement or concrete to fill the hole? I hadn't really thought of that, but it would make it easier to remove should I ever need to,

Thanks

 

[cdbe]

I meant in whatever is below the slab (should be MOT but who knows) just in case a sharp stone ends up next to the pipe . The depth of the slab is fine in concrete or whatever round the pipe. Unless you've found the secret of eternal life I doubt you'll need to replace mdpe.

 

[SouthDrive]

Hello
Thought I would show what I did incase it helps anyone in the future.
Replacing the water pipe was the goal,.
1. Dug out and exposed the old pipe
2. Cut out the broken bricks, (grinder and SDS)
3. Removed old pipe, put some Flexi duct in from eBay, put the mdpe in, bricked up the hole
4. Inside, filled the big hole inside with a weak mix (1cem, 8 sand, 8 gravel) finished the top 6" with a stronger mix (1 cem, 4 sand)

5. New stop cock (old one was stuck) Should have put a drain off valve on the 22 coppers but the shops were shut so I
didn't.

6. The old water pipe that was removed
(There is still 3M of this between the main and the meter )