- Joined
- 8 May 2017
- Messages
- 9,411
- Reaction score
- 2,342
- Country
Fine for the job.
What? You mean every dinner time?
A 16amp blue plug and socket, mounted at the back of the unit, would make it much easier to get in and out for servicing.
I think that would be rather big and expensive.
A 16amp blue plug and socket, mounted at the back of the unit, would make it much easier to get in and out for servicing.
I'm a bit confused. Why all this talk about 16A plugs/sockets for a 2.3kW oven?I think that would be rather big and expensive. ... Could use Schuko though
I'm a bit confused. Why all this talk about 16A plugs/sockets for a 2.3kW oven?
All true, but 2.3 kW is appreciably less than 13A, and countless ovens (not to mention tumble dryers etc.) drawing that sort of current are supplied via 13A BS1363 plug/sockets.13amp plugs in constant high current use tend to overheat, though quite legitimate to use one for 3kw. A 16amp plug and socket would solve that issue and make it easy to extract the oven for servicing.
To illustrate this ... as I have said before, I don't have any electric oven/cooker with which to do this experient, but I have previously illustrated this point by using a 1,700W deep fat fryer which, conceptually, is not that much different from a thermostatically-controlled oven. As can be seen, once up to temperature (which takes about 8 or 9 minutes for the fryer), it represents nothing remotely like a "constant high-current load" (note that this is based on 60-second-average current measurements which explains why, although the thermostat is just on/off, there are some minutes with sub-1700W consumption) ....In fact, contrary to what people often seem to assume, an oven does not represent anything like a 'constant high current' load. On the contrary, once the oven is up to temperature, the oven will only draw any significant current for brief and relatively infrequent periods.
How can a simple on / off thermostat, feeding a fixed 1700w heating element possibly demonstrate have other than no load or full load? There is no halfway house to on or off.although the thermostat is just on/off, there are some minutes with sub-1700W consumption) ....
1700W for half a minute - 850Wm.
(note that this is based on 60-second-average current measurements which explains why, although the thermostat is just on/off, there are some minutes with sub-1700W consumption) ....
As I said, the data I was working with were 'per minute' averages, and they were derived from currents measurements nominally once every 12 seconds. Hence, for example, if the 1,700W was 'on' for, say, two of those 12 second periods and 'off for the other three 12-second periods in the minute, then the average for the minute would be 680W, or if it were 'on' for three of the five measurements in a minute, the average for that minute would be 1,020W etc.How can a simple on / off thermostat, feeding a fixed 1700w heating element possibly demonstrate have other than no load or full load? There is no halfway house to on or off.
That's obvious. However, my whole point was that a load which is 1,700W for, say, 25% of the time (in 1-3 minute 'bursts), per my graph, and is 0W for 75% of the time definitely does not qualify as a "constant high load" to my mind.As an average load. The peak load remains at 1700W, the minimum is 0W.
Use a BS 546 15 amp plug and socket.I think that would be rather big and expensive.
Could use Schuko though
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Type-E-F...587679?hash=item3d1e505adf:g:snIAAOxy8HlScic4
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kopp-Fre...948712&hash=item1a4f6987a4:g:McoAAOSwJQVcOGea
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local