Replacement Single Oven - 13A or 16A

I realise that, and I'm grateful for your giving us your professional opinion. The 'hypothetical questions' have been my attempt to gain a fuklkl understanding of what your professional opinion (as regards the application of diversity) actually was.
I was not suggesting that the oven would be supplied through a 13A plug. What I was asking was, if the oven and a hob were hardwired into the same circuit, whether you would apply diversity when designing that circuit and, if so, whether you would include the 3.6 kW of oven load in your diversity calculation.

As I said, all I'm trying to do is to gain a complete understanding of your professional opinions regarding diversity.

Kind Regards, John

Fair enough.

In this particular thread the starting point is a single oven rated at 16A. As such, my sop is to not apply diversity.

The MI for the oven state the oven characteristics are 3600W, 16A and no plug. This indicates the circuit requires a 16A MCB. Applying diversity would indeed drop the current to 12A, but this doesn't change the MCB rating.

I would also, referencing Appendix 15 ( Fig 15A iii which advises that cookers/ovens/hobs over 2KW should be on their own circuit).

If there were other appliances I'd apply diversity over the total load and use that value to determine the MCB rating.
This would account for the fact that not all of the load would be in use at any one time. I'd look to install a single circuit for these appliances (ref. Appendix 15).

This is how I interpret the regulations and guidance. If anybody here, or elsewhere takes a different position, I'm not saying they are wrong to do so.

Maybe I am over cautious. I take the view I will only do for a client what I'd do in my own home.
 
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In this particular thread the starting point is a single oven rated at 16A. As such, my sop is to not apply diversity.
Fair enough.
The MI for the oven state the oven characteristics are 3600W, 16A and no plug. This indicates the circuit requires a 16A MCB. Applying diversity would indeed drop the current to 12A, but this doesn't change the MCB rating.
Again, fair enough - but this is a bit different from what you say in the case of multiple cooking appliances, when you say that the required MCB rating should be determined from the after-diversity, rather than pre-diversity, load. I suppose this comes down to the fact that you don't believe that diversity should be applied to a single oven (although I still wonder whether a "3.6kW" one really does have only one element!).
I would also, referencing Appendix 15 ( Fig 15A iii which advises that cookers/ovens/hobs over 2KW should be on their own circuit).
To be fair, you are talking about the notes to Fig 15A, which relate specifically to ring final circuits. Since such circuits are unique in that they are allowed to be wired with cable whose CCC is less than the In of the circuit's OPD, there is a clearly a risk that some parts of the cable could be overloaded even if the total load was less than the In of the OPD. In order to minimise that specific risk, the notes to which you refer advise against connection of cooking loads >2kW (and also immersion and space heaters etc.) to a ring final circuit. There is no such advice in relation to radial sockets circuits (Fig 15B) - although I suspect you would probably be saying the same even if it were a radial circuit?

Having said all that, (a)... I do agree that, as a general concept, it is preferable not to have any 'large fixed' load supplied by any sockets circuit (whether radial or ring), but (b) there are, of course, a good few (~3kW) single ovens out there which came supplied with 13A plugs, most of which are probably plugged into ring final circuits (whatever I might think about that).
If there were other appliances I'd apply diversity over the total load and use that value to determine the MCB rating. This would account for the fact that not all of the load would be in use at any one time.
It really comes down to a question of the degree of 'gamble' one is prepared to take, since, if most bits of the cooker (oven, hobs etc.) are turned on, there is a very much a finite probability that there will times when everything is 'on' simultaneously - so it's a question of how high a level of that probability ('risk') you are prepared to accept.

There is certainly a potential 'issue' at switch on from cold. If (far from impossible) a 3.6kW oven plus three 1.6kW hob plates were switched on from cold simultaneously, about 36.5A would flow until at least one of the bits got up to temperature. If (as is common) the ciurcuit were protected by a 32A MCB, that would represent about 14% over the MCB's In - which is almost the same as the ~15% by which a 13A fuse's In would be exceed whilst just the 3.6kW oven was heating up from cold (if supplied by a 13A plug).
I'd look to install a single circuit for these appliances (ref. Appendix 15).
See above. 'To be fair' what Appendix 15 advises is that such loads should not be connected to a ring final circuit, even though I agree with you that it is prefereable that large fixed loads are not supplied by any sockets circuit.
This is how I interpret the regulations and guidance. If anybody here, or elsewhere takes a different position, I'm not saying they are wrong to do so. Maybe I am over cautious. I take the view I will only do for a client what I'd do in my own home.
I have no problem at all with cautious - unless it becomes 'over-cautious' to the extent that it's hard to justify additional work/costs on the basis or perceived 'benefits' (which I'm not really suggesting is the case here).

I think the only real difference between us is that, given that (despite my views) people are buying 3kW ovens with 13A plugs and plugging them into sockets circuits (and I'm not going to tell them not to), I can't get too excited about a 3.6kW one being supplied similarly (particularly given that one can 'support' that practice on the basis of what diversity guidelines actually say, even if we can debate about that).

Kind Regards, John
 
The manual indicates it has two elements and a fan which can be on at the same time.

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Therefore I would not have it supplied through a 13A fuse in either a plug or an FCU.

It says it needs a 16A supply (for operation).
That's not the same as saying it needs a 16A MCB - which it does not - that depends on the cable characteristics so it follows that it does not need a 13A fuse either.

So, to be controversial, if it is thought that it could be supplied through a plug or FCU on the ring circuit then it could be connected directly to the ring circuit through a 20A switch - if fault current compliant and notwithstanding Appendix 15 informative advice.
This would negate any overheating worries in a plug or FCU
 

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The manual indicates it has two elements and a fan which can be on at the same time.
Maybe I'm missing it, but I'm not convinced about that (that they can be on at the same time). Although you quite probably can't read the below, it indicates what I'm looking at - and which of the 'Cooking Types' selectable do you think involves both elements being on? (I think the 'touch controls' you have illustrated are just quick ways of getting to a couple of the cooking modes (without using the menu), but not necessarily at the same time ..


upload_2019-5-14_17-39-10.png


Kind Regards, John
 
What about the red icon being on?
I think that merely means that one has pressed that icon to select the "Types of heating" mode, which then anables one to select one of the various heating modes by "using the rotary selector" (to chose one of those modes which was in the list I previously posted). I still can't find any of those modes which involves "top/boittom" and "hot air" being on at the same time, can you? ....

upload_2019-5-14_20-15-52.png


Kind Regards, John
 
Yes, but I'm considering the heat 'emitted from top and bottom' as being a single element (even if it is physically two). I thought you were distinguishing between that/those and the 'other' (second or third) element - the 'ring-shaped element in the back panel' which is used for hot air heating (but, as far as I can make out, never simultaneously with the other element(s)

upload_2019-5-14_22-21-46.png


Kind Regards, John
 
Ah, I didn't realise there was an element round the fan.

That means there are three elements so, almost certainly, they will not be able to all be on together.

Whether that reduces the 3.6kW, is still not certain.
 
Ah, I didn't realise there was an element round the fan. That means there are three elements so, almost certainly, they will not be able to all be on together. Whether that reduces the 3.6kW, is still not certain.
Indeed - that's the uncertainty. However, one can but presume that the 3.6kW represents the maximum it can be in any 'mode' - otherwise it wouldn't make much sense?

You're probably right that the 'top and bottom' heating will involve two separate elements (in which case the question will arise as to whether they have common, or separate, thermostatic control) but that it perhaps not inevitable. Very many moons ago I had an oven (the only electric oven I've ever owned - I have a feeling that it was a Moffat) which had a single element which wound around all over the place (top and bottom) - which I learned to my cost when I had to replace it!

Kind Regards, John
 
Applying diversity would indeed drop the current to 12A, but this doesn't change the MCB rating.
Of course not, as there are no MCBs (sensibly) available between 6A and 16A.

But what of the potential BS 1362 fuse?

IbInIz

12InIz

12 < 13Iz
 
Easy when you know how. And - I'm sure - also realise that in a world where voltage can vary from 200ish to 250 all electrical calcs involving voltage are pretty meaningless, and a responsible person would always use the most onerous figure. Which in this case means 3600w/200v=18Amps, the oven should be on its own 20A circuit. And the graphs and other nitpicking pettiness can be explained to the coroner at the inquest into the fatal fire that was caused when the oven thermostat got stuck and did not turn OFF, and that is not a rare event.

EDIT This calculation is incorrect, see next post from EFLImpudence for the correct calc, but my argument remains the same.
But how much credibility does your argument have given the ignorance betokened by your "incorrect calculation"?

And how do you know that all of the ratings for cables etc do not already include margins to allow for voltage excursions?

What you call meaningless calculations and "graphs and other nitpicking pettiness" are actually concepts which you do not seem to understand.
 
But how much credibility does your argument have given the ignorance betokened by your "incorrect calculation"?

And how do you know that all of the ratings for cables etc do not already include margins to allow for voltage excursions?

What you call meaningless calculations and "graphs and other nitpicking pettiness" are actually concepts which you do not seem to understand.

The only man in the world that has never made a mistake, is a man that does nothing. Thanks for the laugh. hahahahahaha
 

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