Replacing a bathroom ceiling

[st07]

Hi,

Our bathroom ceiling has both a loft hatch and downlighters installed. Another (easier to access) loft hatch has been installed elsewhere and the downlighters are pretty shoddy so rather than fill in the gaps left in the ceiling we feel it'd be easier to simply replace the entire ceiling.

How would we go about this? Simply buy another bit of plasterboard and screw over existing? Knock down ceiling and install new? What about moisture protection?

Many thanks in advance

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(you can just about see the ceiling / loft hatch in the picture attached)

Untitled

• st07
• 23 Nov 2011
• 1

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Do you know what the material used on the ceiling is (plasterboad/lath&plaster)?
Is the ceiling sound an secure?
If it is overboard it using foilback board will offer a vapour check barrier, but if you have good ventilation in the room may not be need also if a vapour check already exist will not need one. But having it will be an advantage.
Knocking down ceilings is a messy job and if can be avoided, I would!
but the ceiling/joist must be secure and able to hold the additional weight of extra boards and plaster.
A link that you may find helpful.
//www.diynot.com/forums/plastering-rendering/overboarding-a-kitchen.300418/

 

[leew2]

A few years ago I installed a ceiling in our bathroom made from T&G MDF boards bought from B&Q, looks really nice and was very easy to install, I would highly recommend it. Been in for about 4 years now and still looks fine.

 

[noseall]

Remove the ceiling and replace with 12.5mm foil back (duplex) plasterboards.

You may have issues with board thickness conflicting with the downlight clips, should you double board.

 

[Ricke21]

Over boarding is by far the fastest and cleanest way to sort your celling. Use 9mm board and if you have concerns about spotlights going in. Then just simply make over size holes in existing celling before you board.

If you do choose to pull celling down then clean and hover in loft first.

Good luck :u

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I would never use 9.5mm boards on ceiling as they will sag over time and this will also mean that the joints will crack under pressure/stress.
12.5mm for ceilings.
I have found that some down lights actually fit better with a double layer of boarding on the ceiling, so it will really depend on the downlights you buy.
I would suggest you get suitable ones to prevent the spread of fire and moisture into the void above.

 

[Ricke21]

I would never use 9.5mm boards on ceiling as they will sag over time and this will also mean that the joints will crack under pressure/stress.

That would be rite but not when your over boarding. As you've got a solid backing a 3 8 board is fine.

 

[melt]

That would be rite but not when your over boarding. As you've got a solid backing a 3 8 board is fine

i agree with ricke21 i always use 9.5 when over boarding & 12.5 when taking back to cieling joists.
just remember to use the correct length of drywall screw and locate the cieling joist to screw to when over boarding. this should not create to much of a problem has you have access above

mel

 

[st07]

Cheers guys, I can't find 9mm foil-backed plasterboard anywhere but I guess this 12mm stuff will do?

http://www.wickes.co.uk/vapourshield-plasterboard/invt/220230/

...

actually might this be better?

http://www.wickes.co.uk/aquapanel-water-resistant-backing-board/invt/220561/

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

No that's designed as waterproof backing board to tiled surfaces ie walls and consequently is as rough as a badgers backside. Stick with MR plasterboard that is the right material for the job. The other one you linked to is not moisture resistant either BTW http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/DS-011-02 Gyproc Moisture Resistant.pdf Go somewhere else other than Wickes, try any builders merchant. (clue: moisture resistant board is green).