Replacing a Honeywell Mk7 Keypad

[graeme.a.jones]

Security company say my keypad needs replacing (after a Tamper 0 error). They want to charge £200 to replace. I think I can buy a new keypad for £30 on Ebay. Is it a simple process of swapping the keypad on the current backplane (checking the wall tamper) or am I being too naive?!

 

[GalaxyGuy]

Yes, just ensure the rotary address selector is at the same position. You will need the engineer code to enter engineering and exit engineering once works are completed.

Ensure that the off-wall tamper is implemented correctly. This is achieved by screwing a flat head screw into a rawl plug in the off-wall tamper slot position, adjusting in order that the keypad tamper is depressed when the keypad front is pushed home.

 

[graeme.a.jones]

Thanks ... although your reply already shows I'm naive!
I have the engineer code (really old one apparently) but why do I need it? What will I need to do once works are completed?

Looking at powering down videos at the moment. I assume I need to do that?

Also, perhaps an incorrectly configured off-wall tamper is what's causing the problem. I could check that first.

G

 

[GalaxyGuy]

On the Galaxy, when you enter engineering mode - eng code and 'ent' all tampers are then ignored. So this allows you to trigger tampers without causing or logging any alerts. After fixing any issues, you exit eng mode - eng code and 'esc' and the tampers are checked, and if clear the system will go back into normal mode.

The keypad is actually on a push fit connector, so you can actually change without powering down. They are really quite tight to separate though!

>> Also, perhaps an incorrectly configured off-wall tamper is what's causing the problem. I could check that first.

Yes, you can generally test for this by seeing if you can trigger a tamper by gently twisting the keypad while in normal mode. Many installers do not implement the off-wall tamper correctly, so it's likely that you'll see that no rawl plug and screw has been fitted and if the wall is slightly uneven, or the backplate twisted with the wall-screws being screwed too tightly, then that can be enough to cause an intermittent tamper issue. Many engineers also (incorrectly) opt for adding an electrical tape shim to reduce the clearance between the switch and backplate. Although this works, it isn't the correct solution to the problem.

 

[graeme.a.jones]

Fantastic. I've never used one of these forums before ... I'm frankly amazed. Thanks!

 

[GalaxyGuy]

You can also send the keypads into test mode by powering the keypad up with the 'ent' key pressed. After the initial self test, the keypad emits a continual tone if the tamper switch is open. You can use this to make fine adjustments to the back-wall tamper, but you do need to remove power again to exit the test mode. I normally do this by keeping the 'ent' key pressed while fitting the black push-fit connector, check the tamper fit, then remove and unplug/replug the connector to take the keypad out of test mode.

 

[graeme.a.jones]

Job for tomorrow. Let you know!
Thanks again.
G
ps Duh ... just understood your username!

 

[graeme.a.jones]

Dear GalaxyGuy

Its working! As you suggested the backplane was not secured in a symetric manner and wobbled. Whoever put in the keypad made a (hidden) mess when (s)he drilled the hole. Fixed the mess, screwed a horizonally aligned short piece of wide elastic band into sacrificial hole, checked with your power up/holding "ent" key trick, and all fine.

The sacrificial hole was not being used ... which I left unused. Is that normal?

Anyway a huge thank you; you saved me a small fortune.

G

 

[GalaxyGuy]

The back-wall tamper is really a grade 3 requirement, so the small plastic tab is generally left in situ for domestic grade 2 installs. The trouble with not fitting a flathead screw is that you just don't get a good contact to the switch with uneven surfaces.