replacing a Randall 3022 with new electronic timer

[spence_spark]

i have to deduce live/neutral (easy).... heating on/ heating off...
hot water on/hot water off (far from easy)
hence using all 6 terminals of new controller

 

[chrishutt]

So the problem was the lack of one terminal on the connecting strip (junction box)? Spence-spark describes himself as an electrical contractor! And we plumbers are teaching him to suck eggs! Something strange about this?

 

[spence_spark]

So the problem was the lack of one terminal on the connecting strip (junction box)? Spense-spark describes himself as an electrical contractor! And we plumbers are teaching him to suck eggs! Something strange about this?

if it were just that chris i could sort it easy but i dont understand the plumbing terms described in the 3022 wiring guide at all to be able to know what is ch on/off etc

 

[chrishutt]

OK sorry if I was a bit unsympathetic.

All programmers now use an industry standard backplate. The 6 connections are as follows (left to right) - N, L, HW OFF, CH OFF, HW ON, CH ON. there should be a diagram on the back of the new programmer to confirm this.

You want to use terminals 1,2 and 5,6. Leave 3 and 4 unconnected. Then refer to Honeywell W plan diagram for junction box terminal strip connections.

 

[spence_spark]

ive sussed it now i had'nt looked at the MK3 series on randall website only the 3022 link
many thanks to all who helped steer me to the answers i needed