replacing a Randall 3022 with new electronic timer

i have to deduce live/neutral (easy).... heating on/ heating off...
hot water on/hot water off (far from easy)
hence using all 6 terminals of new controller
:oops: :cry: :cry:
 
Sponsored Links
So the problem was the lack of one terminal on the connecting strip (junction box)? Spence-spark describes himself as an electrical contractor! And we plumbers are teaching him to suck eggs! Something strange about this?
 
chrishutt said:
So the problem was the lack of one terminal on the connecting strip (junction box)? Spense-spark describes himself as an electrical contractor! And we plumbers are teaching him to suck eggs! Something strange about this?

if it were just that chris i could sort it easy but i dont understand the plumbing terms described in the 3022 wiring guide at all to be able to know what is ch on/off etc
 
OK sorry if I was a bit unsympathetic.

All programmers now use an industry standard backplate. The 6 connections are as follows (left to right) - N, L, HW OFF, CH OFF, HW ON, CH ON. there should be a diagram on the back of the new programmer to confirm this.

You want to use terminals 1,2 and 5,6. Leave 3 and 4 unconnected. Then refer to Honeywell W plan diagram for junction box terminal strip connections.
 
Sponsored Links
ive sussed it now i had'nt looked at the MK3 series on randall website only the 3022 link
many thanks to all who helped steer me to the answers i needed
:LOL:
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top