My kitchen tap is over 12 years old. The internal sealing surface seem to be failing. I have changed the ceramic 1/4-turn valves several times, but after a few months a slow drip returns, i.e. from the tap nozzle.
If a complete tap replacement is advisable, what are the DIY pitfalls? The current model is a Carron Phoenix Savona - the fully curved type with a brushed-effect finish.
This exact model appears to be no longer available, so I guess they ceased manufacture? Did anyone take on this design?? Ebay seems to have an L-shaped variant, but the brushed-effect finish seems less common.
Please comment if this type has any quirks that makes de-installing and replacement more difficult, including identifying a mechanically compatible replacement - which is something I'd like to do even if using a professional to do the replacement fitting.
As far as I can ascertain, most mounting through holes are a standard 35mm, but please shout if you know different. I have the original fitting Instructions, which do not have this detail. What is the risk of another model *not* fitting the existing through hole in the granite.
What are the best tool options to attack the mechanical fixing? I may need a swivel or UJ.
There is access from below, but the back panel might foul a direct attack (see side panel cut-out in the photo).
Is that long nut a single, or likely to be part of a locking nut pair? I think that's a photo image artefact suggesting the latter.
The wet attachments look fairly straight-forward, but any advice welcome to ease the way.
Anything to penetrate the scale/goo?
I would need to remove the drainage assembly for better access.
TIA
If a complete tap replacement is advisable, what are the DIY pitfalls? The current model is a Carron Phoenix Savona - the fully curved type with a brushed-effect finish.
This exact model appears to be no longer available, so I guess they ceased manufacture? Did anyone take on this design?? Ebay seems to have an L-shaped variant, but the brushed-effect finish seems less common.
Please comment if this type has any quirks that makes de-installing and replacement more difficult, including identifying a mechanically compatible replacement - which is something I'd like to do even if using a professional to do the replacement fitting.
As far as I can ascertain, most mounting through holes are a standard 35mm, but please shout if you know different. I have the original fitting Instructions, which do not have this detail. What is the risk of another model *not* fitting the existing through hole in the granite.
What are the best tool options to attack the mechanical fixing? I may need a swivel or UJ.
There is access from below, but the back panel might foul a direct attack (see side panel cut-out in the photo).
Is that long nut a single, or likely to be part of a locking nut pair? I think that's a photo image artefact suggesting the latter.
The wet attachments look fairly straight-forward, but any advice welcome to ease the way.
Anything to penetrate the scale/goo?
I would need to remove the drainage assembly for better access.
TIA

