Replacing chipboard flooring with solid timber floorboards

[dopper69]

Evening all,

First post, have looked on the search feature to no avail.

I have recently purchased a 1995 terraced style house. To say that it was built on a budget is an understatement to say the least. Anyhow, my entire upstairs flooring has been feeling cheap and flimsy for a while so last night I thought I would investigate.

After removing all of the carpets etc I have found that the floor consists of 18mm T&G chipboard that has been nailed directly to the joists. The builders however have not placed the edges of two boards over the joists though which I thought was standard practice?

Im looking at removing the chipboard floor and replacing them with 18mm solid timber floorboards (to remove the need for scribing existing door frames, skirting boards etc) however I have read conflicting information with regards to constructing a sub floor to house the new floor boards. Do I have to make a sub floor from a sheet material first or can the solid timber floor boards be fitted directly to the existing joists?

Im thinking that this will be much more sturdier than the chipboard as with each board having a smaller area it will have more fixings to the joists than chipboard. Would screws or nails be better to use (future access to services in void etc?)

These are the floor boards that I propose using:

http://www.wickes.co.uk/ptg-floorboards/invt/120832/

At the same time Im going to fill the void of the floor with an insulation to assist with noise transmittance between floors. Does anyone happen to know a reputable brand / type?

Thanks for any replies in advance

 

[JohnD]

in the days before weetabix was used as a building material, 3/4" softwood was used a lot.

Put noggins under any cut edges.

you get get dense batts of mineral wool for soundproofing, but I used the loft rolls that are subsidised and much cheaper. You will need to use greater depth for the same weight. Use the stuff with an anti-dust additive that does not shed loose fibres. Electric cables must not be surrounded in insulation, they must be in free air on at least one side, or in contact with the ceiling below.

I prefer countersink screws to nails. Drill a pilot to avoid splitting.

 

[dopper69]

in the days before weetabix was used as a building material, 3/4" softwood was used a lot.

Put noggins under any cut edges.

you get get dense batts of mineral wool for soundproofing, but I used the loft rolls that are subsidised and much cheaper. You will need to use greater depth for the same weight. Use the stuff with an anti-dust additive that does not shed loose fibres. Electric cables must not be surrounded in insulation, they must be in free air on at least one side, or in contact with the ceiling below.

I prefer countersink screws to nails. Drill a pilot to avoid splitting.

Thanks for the information and tips RE loft rolls. Can the 18mm be screwed directly onto the joists? (the joists are spaced 350mm apart)

 

[JohnD]

yes

 

[big-all]

my advice is go to a woodyard you will get your planks in lengths up to around 5.1m in increments off 300mm