Replacing damaged floor boards with ply.

Joined
30 Dec 2015
Messages
32
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Upstairs I have a lot of damaged boards when prev folk have had plumbing or elecs done. The new boards they put in to replace some have shrunk and left huge gaps. So what is the consensus. Should I replace the damaged areas with ply which won't shrink or with new boards which prob will. It will be carpeted after.
Opinions please.
 
Sponsored Links
Without knowing where the questionable boards are or a few photos of them its difficult to advise you.
Depending on "the damage" or if there are any loose or creaking boards why replace anything if underlay and carpet are going over?
Were the replacement boards screwed or nailed down?
 
Hi the floorboards are very creaky. The box room has split and broken boards in a number of areas. The worst area is a strip (Ch pipe work) running the full width of box room and the length of the landing. This alone is 2 board widths. The originals have been replaced with new wood which has shrunk leaving a gap big enough to fit a foot!!! Boards are nailed. If good boards were shuffled together there would be wide areas hence considering ply board.
 
Working over or near to pipes needs careful attention.
The boards could be lifted and any T&G tongue could be removed.
The space between soundly fixed boards could be taken up with rippings of 18mm or 22mm chipboard or ply.
The rippings to be screwed down in safe, marked fixing positions.

But, as above, photos would help.
 
Sponsored Links
Thanks yes, part of the problem is pipework too high and will be Re fitted first. And yes Re care, no access points, but will be sure to be mindful of screw in pipe risk! On one hand it seems more appropriate to replace floorboards like for like, but as it's not on view and relatively large areas it seems reasonable to use a board which also avoids problems with new wood shrinkage. Just looking for opinions on whether it's seen as a bodge not using floorboards? Sorry not got photos at mo.
 
If its as bad as it sounds, why not replace the entire floor with a tongue and groove chipboard? Available in 18 or 22mm thickness, and 8' x 2' sheets, its not the work of the devil that some say.....so long as it doesn't get wet of course! Fix down with screws, 5x50, carefully observing pipe and cable runs.
John :)
 
Yes it is

In my house, apart from the water damage, it has cracked in high traffic areas - in front of the sink where people stand, the floor near the bottom of the stairs where they step off, between floor and bed, between cooker and table.

It is a vile material and best suited to the bonfire.

It is only used because it is cheap and will usually last until after the builder has got away and the cheque has cleared.
 
Is that why its been in use since the mid 60's then John?
If its properly supported and naturally enough kept dry, its completely fit for purpose.
John P :)
 
Yes, that's right.

It is only used because it is cheap and will usually last until after the builder has got away and the cheque has cleared.

Ply is much better.
 
its not the work of the devil that some say.....so long as it doesn't get wet of course!
And even then if you buy a decent brand, such as Egger in P5 quality, you'd be surprised at how durable it is - even when soaked sporadically

In my house, apart from the water damage, it has cracked in high traffic areas - in front of the sink where people stand, the floor near the bottom of the stairs where they step off, between floor and bed, between cooker and table.
Sounds like it may have been poorly installed, and of the wrong thickness and grade....... It is not vile material at all, providing it is correctly specified and properly installed. It is often chosen in commercial applications where durability and serviceability are the requirement - but then it needs to be screwed down with decent screws at the right spacings, the joints need to be properly supported and the tongues and grooves need to be glued. My own experience is that there are far too many fly by night builders and carpenters who under-specify, nail the stuff in place (with insufficient fastenings - and nails?) onto under-spec joistwork, don't support the joints and don't glue the tongues, either. So it will fail if you have a half-arsed cowboy install like that...... But so will many other materials used in the construction industry

Yes, that's right.
Ply is much better.
At three to five times the price so it should be, only a lot of the chaep and nasty Chinese stuff we see these days really isn't any better with voids, thick laminae joints, sand throughs, over-sized patches, dry joints which separate and filler all over the place......
 
Have refurbed my home and have lots of CaberFloor P5 installed, would have preferred ply or floor boards but was persuaded to use the P5. All was screwed and glued .But before the bedroom was even inhabited the step ladders punched a hole through the floor in an area where timbers were at 300mm centres.
 
The originals have been replaced with new wood which has shrunk leaving a gap big enough to fit a foot!!!
That's not shrinkage... that's a missing board!

Replace with new boards. Not only do they allow you to patch small areas without having to rip up lots of perfectly good old boards, but they will last longer than either ply or chipboard, are less likely to creak, are easier to handle (22mm ply is HEAVY) and are basically the same price per sq coverage.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top