Replacing Halogen MR16 bulbs

[superdon]

Moving on from my replacement kitchen lights, which I am still yet to decide on, I have got a bit LED obsessed!

We have three downlights in the downstairs bathroom. They are using the following bulbs at the moment.....

General Electric Halogen MR16 12v 50w GU5.3 36 degrees

If I purchased something like http://www.energybulbs.co.uk/produc...Warm+White+%282400K%29+%2836%B0%29/2114602772

Can I just change the bulbs over and it all be fine? I am presuming then, I will be saving money electricity wise?

Thanks for any help. This LED game is confusing me!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You will need to check the transformers of the existing lights, as LED require drivers as the output is much lower than the standard halogen.
The transformer will have a minimum and maximum load capacity, it very likely this will not be in the same range as the LED lamps.

 

[superdon]

Managed to access the transformer for these lights.

Heres a pic of it

 

[Iggifer]

does this one transformer power all 3 lamps? Or is there one per lamp?

Either way, get a pack of these badboys (quick they've only got one pack left)

http://www.energybulbs.co.uk/philip...very+warm+white)+(last+3+in+stock)/1014853205

And you won't need to worry about the rating on the transformer

 

[superdon]

does this one transformer power all 3 lamps? Or is there one per lamp?

Either way, get a pack of these badboys (quick they've only got one pack left)

http://www.energybulbs.co.uk/philip...very+warm+white)+(last+3+in+stock)/1014853205

And you won't need to worry about the rating on the transformer

Thanks. Yes, that powers all three lights.

 

[superdon]

So, as the lights are old and dirty, I am thinking of taking them out and replacing them.

So...if it take input mains cables out of the transformer can I the fit them directly into the first downlight fitting and then daisy chain to the second, and then from the second to the third? Is it as simple as that?

I was thinking of these recessed fittings http://www.discount-electrical.co.u...05mm---recess-depth---88mm---cut-out-----85mm as they are are bit wider and will cover the larger hole they need to go in.

Along with some Megaman lamps like http://www.tradeledstore.co.uk/megaman-gu10-6w-35-dimmable-led

Would this work?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If your intention is to go down the 240V route and remove the transformer, Yes. but remember that any junctions or joints made in the ceiling void must be accessible for maintenance, inspection and test or be of the type considered maintenance free.

MF boxes

handy for downlight connection but not MF

 

[Iggifer]

of course, depending on the type of light you fit, you can do away with a junction box all together and just loop in/out from each fitting

This of course requires you to find a fitting that will accept 2x1.0mm/1.5mm T+E cables, and not all do

 

[superdon]

Cheers. So those fittings and lamps would be ok?

I am guessing, as they are cheap, they wont have in and out loops on the fittings so probably best for me to go the maintenance free junction box route.

Which junction box should I use? Mains in, and out to three lights. In fact it would be nice to have room for another in the future, so say mains in and out to four lights.

What cable should I use from junction box to fitting?

Finally. Any reason not to do this and to replace the transformer and go 12v? Seems like a no brainer to me. Saves putting in another component that could fail?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

So those fittings and lamps would be ok?

Never used the fittings, so cannot offer informed advise. Lamps are okay.

I am guessing, as they are cheap, they wont have in and out loops on the fittings

Likely to have a connection box that allows only for one set of cables.

Which junction box should I use?

*There are a number of methods that can be used to comply, providing you can gain access to the junction, it totally person choice.
*There are wagos and wago boxes (not the cheapest method)
*There are the ashley downlight junctions
*You could just use connector strip and choc box
*You could use click flow system

What cable should I use from junction box to fitting?

0.75mm heat resistant flex would do.

Finally. Any reason not to do this and to replace the transformer and go 12v? Seems like a no brainer to me. Saves putting in another component that could fail?

No reason other than maintenance/replacement of transformer/drivers when they fail.

 

[superdon]

Right, I am nearly sorted I think. Just wanted to post some pics of the current wiring to get your input.

Heres the light fittings currently off the 12v transformer, to be replaced by 240v fittings/GU10 LEDs....



Heres some closer pics at different angles of the connections currently going in to the transformer....

















Heres the light switch that operates the lights, along with another fitting in the hallway....



And heres the connector block at the second light fitting in the hallway...

 

[superdon]

So, my intention is.....

Remove the transformer.
Put a junction box in its place.
Wire in the Live and Neutral that currently go in to the transformer, as they are, into the new Junction Box.
Remove the connector block that is joining the earths, and put them both into the new Junction box.
Run new Earth, Neutral, Live 0.75mm Heat Resistant cable from the new Junction box to the first light fitting.
Run the same heat resistant cable from first light fitting, to second.
Run the same heat resistant cable from second light fitting to third and final.

IF the fittings I choose, wont take two lots of wires, I will pop in a small JB at each fitting, but do the same as above.

If the fittings I choose don't require earths, I will simply leave the earths at the first JB terminated together.

Will this work???

As for fittings, I am now either thinking of the JCC JC2009 or some fire can fittings from LED Hut.

Bulbs - either Megaman 6w GU10 or 5w wide angle LED from LED Hut.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

It sounds a good plan, but I would recommend keeping the earth continues to each part of the circuit, even if the fittings do not require and are not fitted to earth.
The earth/CPC may be required later on for fittings that do provide for and require an earth/CPC and also the inspection, testing, faulty finding and diagnosis procedures are greatly help with the CPC being in place.

 

[superdon]

Excellent thanks. So nothing in my photos gives any concern?

I have ordered the fittings (went with the JCC ones) and some 4.5 and 5w lamps from LED Hut and some junction boxes. Will get myself some 3 core .75mm heat resitant flex tomorrow.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Excellent thanks. So nothing in my photos gives any concern?

If the connection were not in an existing enclosure and all that was used was electricians tape to protect from accidental contact. That would be a concern, as is the connection in you last photo, would need a little more information concerning that, as you should have gathered by now, connection should be enclosed to prevent contact with live conductors, inaccessible joints should be of a type that is considered maintenance free, and continuity of earth/CPC is important, by the sounds of it, you are going to improve the situation.