Replacing Siemens RCR10 for a Drayton Wiser Hub single channel set-up

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Hi,
I'm replacing my Siemens for a Smart Drayton Wiser hub and need some assurance that I have wiring correct, The Siemens is currently connected with 4 wires Blue to Neutral, Brown to Live, Black to L1 and Grey to LX, see attached pics.

The Drayton Wiser hub back plate will have Blue at N, Brown at L (obviously) then I'm assuming Grey goes to 1 and Black goes to 3 is this correct. It seems right to me but I still have a nagging doubt that makes me seek reassurance

many thanks in advance

Regards
Tony
 

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Thanks but are you sure about the link? I have no link on Siemens and while I was investigating this I read about a few people who have blown their boilers with incorrect links.
Boiler is a Combi Worcester Bosch Greenstar 30i
 
Last edited:
Thanks but are you sure about the link?

The terminals are volt free and you need to fit a link if you need them to be 230v. It says so on the picture you posted.

If you are unsure try it without the link first and see if it works.
 
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From the instructions,

"One channel only: Note that the output contacts are voltage-free, so power needs to be put on to Terminal 1 either by linking from Terminal L or from a separate supply with a 3A fuse."
 
From the instructions,

"One channel only: Note that the output contacts are voltage-free, so power needs to be put on to Terminal 1 either by linking from Terminal L or from a separate supply with a 3A fuse."
But the current set up has no link.
The RCR10 is a volt free relay. I know I have one (which needs a L link in my application).

So the new device won't need a link either.

Connecting Live to Common could cause major damage when powered up!

The boiler will 'see' Common 1 is connected to demand (n/o) 3 when the relay closes via it's own supply on the existing wiring.
 
From the instructions,

"One channel only: Note that the output contacts are voltage-free, so power needs to be put on to Terminal 1 either by linking from Terminal L or from a separate supply with a 3A fuse."
No mate , you only make a link if 230V switching, the OP has two wires from the boiler PCB so could be 24V, even if it is 230V the 2 wires will supply 230V no need for a link , and could damage the boiler PCB if wrong
 
It states in boiler manual "any additional equipment connected to the boiler must not have a separate electrical supply"

Thanks all for your comments, very informative.
 
It states in boiler manual "any additional equipment connected to the boiler must not have a separate electrical supply"

Thanks all for your comments, very informative.
That is the same for all boilers and external controls, it is so that anyone working on the boiler and isolates the electrical supply doesnt get a nasty surprise when they find out someone has wired in another supply somewhere
 

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