Replacing stair treads/risers

[Adam09]

Hi guys, I was looking to replace the treads and risers for my parents.

I have never even thought about doing this kind of thing before, so please be gentle!

I was expecting to remove the treads/risers, to find stringers, then cut new treads/risers out of a sheet material then fix them down tight, but this is not the case.

The treads appear to be slotted into the side skirting, and supported by blocks underneath at each side. Then there is piece of timber in the middle for the riser to attach to.

Could anyone give any advice on how I should go about replacing them?

Untitled

• Adam09
• 16 Aug 2012
• 1

Untitled

• Adam09
• 16 Aug 2012
• 1

Many thanks,
Adam.

 

[wingcoax]

Unless you can get access from the back(and it looks like a no no)you have a real job on your hands. The treads are fitted from the back into blind slots in the stiles.

 

[tony1851]

Personally I'd forget it. As wingcoax said, the treads will be pushed into blind slots cut in the strings from the back The slots are usually tapered, being deeper at the rear than the front. They then secure the treads by driving in glued wedges to really tighten them. You will wreck the staircase if you attempt this.

Why do this anyway? If the treads are in poor condition (eg cracked) could you glue something over each of them, such as thin plywood?

 

[Adam09]

Hi guys, thanks for explaining how the staircase is constructed.

Would it still be a massive task if I had access from behind? As the pantry is underneath the stairs. Obviously I would have to pull the sloped plasterboard ceiling down and replace it afterwards. (not that great anyway).

The reason I would like to replace these is because almost all of them squeak really bad! They will be carpeted back over afterwards though.

Any alternatives?

Thanks again,
Adam.

 

[gregers]

nothing is impossible,but as already said it will be a knightmare to do.
the folding wedges are glued in as is the tread/risers.

work out how much time it will take you aswell as the cost of materials,then price up for a new staircase.
take into account redecorating etc.

 

[tony1851]

If you completely uncover the back of the stairs, you might see small triangular blocks of wood glued in the internal angles between the treads and risers (they will be original and are called glue blocks)
If so, these are intended to help stop stairs from squeaking. Sometimes they work loose (or are non-existent). If they are there and some are loose, try taking them off and re-gluing and screwing up tight; use the white PVA glue.
If there are none, consider gluing and screwing some new timber in. Thiis could well stop the squeak and will be a whole lot easier than trying to replace the treads.

 

[Adam09]

Thanks for the replies.

If I was to take the staircase out completely, would it be a easy enough to build a staircase myself?

This time cutting stringers for both sides, bolting them to the wall, and then use plywood for the risers and treads?

Would I need just the 2 stringers or a 3rd one for down the middle too?

What type of timber and thickness would I use for the stringers?

What type of timber would I use to replace where the stiles currently are to finish off the side of the stairs? I assume I would fix this to the wall first, and then attach the stringer to the wall through this.


Many thanks,
Adam.

 

[tony1851]

Don't take this the wrong way but from the questions you are asking, I feel you may not fully understand how stairs are made.
If you are not careful, you will end up spending more money (and a lot of time) making a staircase which will inevitably squeak - back to square one.
Joinery workshops have the equipment and jigs to make proper staircases, and straight-flight stairs are not that expensive.
Suggest looking into prices of manufactured stairs before you start buying materials.