Replacing wired alarm system with wireless. Any advice?

[CluelessDIYer1]

We currently have a wired system which must be quite old since the battery has a 1999 date written on it. It's currently disarmed/disabled, whatever you call it

Anyway, we were considering having a wireless system put in place. We can't remember how to put the current system back together & we've done a little reading on the wireless system and like what we've read.

* Are they quite reliable?

* What would the job entail to switch them over? (I'd be getting someone to do it!) Would the installer just remove the old alarm box, snip the wires to the sensors & then just put in new wireless equipment in its place, or is there more to it than that?

* The box thing that goes on the front of your house to tell everyone it's alarmed - does that also have to get switched? I don't know if they come with the alarm as part of a kit or what.

 

[sparkymarka]

No no no just upgrade your current alarm if the wires are in that's half the battle won, an alarm from 1999 is not old have systems from 1989 still trouble free , if you look after it ,it will last ! And don't go for low end get a mid range panel with end of line wiring and tampers or faults will be indicated in plain English. Eg scantronic 9651 castle euromini or premier 24..

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

Is there anything wrong with switching out wired for wireless? (just out of curiosity)

And what does upgrading the alarm entail then? Just take off that big box & switch with a different sort?

What would a new wired one offer me?

Just to say - i'm not challenging you, i'm just trying to find out & then make my mind up from there so my questions are just to get me fully informed, nothing else


I don't suppose you have any rough idea on cost of upgrading (i'm talking labour cost, not parts cost)?

 

[bernardgreen]

* Are they quite reliable?

They can be, in the ideal environment free of any interfering radio frequency energy.

* or is there more to it than that?

Some you just stick in place and they work. ( or so the salespeople claim ) In reality there is a lot more, if the installer hasn't got a signal strength meter he or she cannot fully test the system,

* * The box thing that goes on the front of your house to tell everyone it's alarmed

That has to be compatible with the other wireless modules, the fun bit is when it's batteries go flat and you have to get up the ladder to change them. Some crafty people have drilled a hole in the wall and fitted the batteries indoors which avoids having to go up the ladder.

If you have the wires in place then use them for a wired system.

Some low cost DIY wireless systems are so bad that you can take a sensor away from the house and the alarm has no idea it has lost a sensor and you can set the alarm with a protected door wide open. Many other problems with them and several ways to defeat them.

 

[sparkymarka]

First point wireless need batteries replacing, ( more costs) you can't mix and match, you can replace most items on a hardwired system, depending on system ( wireless they go to sleep to save on batteries) only two way systems with instant wake up are ready to go on setting, your bell will be limited to 3/4 mins on a wireless system to save on battery life, operating frequencies change you may not be able to get parts in few years time, radio sytems can be blocked , the cost of parts/ extra items are 3 times the price of hardwired parts. That's my view on wireless others will have their say, don't get me wrong they are useful in certain situations but hardwired will allways be better!

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

And that's why i thought i'd ask here first Thanks a lot guys.

So, now the focus goes on to perhaps upgrading the system then - remaining on a wired setup.

What does that entail really?

Ours is a Scantronic 9448+

Like i say, it's been so long since we deactivated it, we can't remember how to put it together so we'll be needing someone out.

I also think the sensor in the diner could be faulty since the red light on it never lit up, unlike in the living room.

 

[EightyTwo]

Nothing wrong with a 9448+ although it is a bit limited! Something with a proper LCD keypad and eol tampers, as sparkymarka said, would be better. In addition to his suggestions, you could consider a Scantronic i-ON30...

You might find that the diner detector has had the LED disabled so it might still be working. EOL wiring only needs 4 cores for a PIR whilst the global tamper of the 9448 needs 6. This means that if there is partial cable damage, you can use the spare cores.

If the PIR is dead, replace it with an Optex RX-40PT - a great PIR which is easy to install and use. It's also very reliable and rarely false alarms.

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

They had a dog in that room so could that be a reason why the red light was never on?

Anyway this is my stuff...



& then some sensors on windows & doors...




So i'll need to locate a security company to look at this job but what would the upgrade job entail?

* Just remove the box in the top photo with a new one & connect up the wiring?

* Can the existing wiring be used? Existing sensors on the doors/windows? Existing sensors in the corners of the living room/diner?

* I know this is very variable, but likely time/cost for this sort of upgrade?

 

[EightyTwo]

To upgrade:

Fit new control panel in place of the old 9448+. Use the existing cables.
Install the new keypad in a suitable location and wire back to the panel.
Fit resistors inside the existing detectors and contacts.
Add an internal speaker(?).

Total time? Probably around half a day for one engineer.
Cost? A few hundred quid? - Get quotations from local firms if you don't want to do it yourself.

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

Superb. Thanks.

Fit new control panel in place of the old 9448+. Use the existing cables.
Install the new keypad in a suitable location and wire back to the panel.

Having only experienced the burglar alarm setup we have, this quote baffles me.

All we have right now is that control box. The keypad is on it as you can see.

Do these new modern things come as 2 separate units then? The box & the pad separate?

Is there any reason why you'd have the keypad installed separate from the control box? It's currently located in what'll be a storage cupboard where the hoover & coats etc will be immediately in front of the front door. I guess this is likely the best place for both items.

 

[EightyTwo]

Your new alarm will almost certainly have a separate keypad and control panel (like the 9448ES version of your panel). This allows "the works" to be installed in a discrete place, like a cupboard or riser, and the keypad placed conveniently by the entrance door. This has the added advantage that an intruder won't know where the control panel is.

There is no reason why you shouldn't put the keypad next to the panel.

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

Easy when you know what you're on about Top man! Thanks a lot for he help.
Just need to pick the right company to do it now & hope we don't get some right joker.

 

[chris close]

the scantronic control unit u have is a really good unit all u would need is new battery and new bell box at front something like texecom odessey 3e ,Pyronix deltabell+ or elmdene hs500 and maybe replace the pir in the dinning room with something like a pyronix pir

 

[sparkymarka]

And the post is only 2 years old !