Well it doesn't sound much but this one was quite elaborate - solid oak and complex lathe turned legs. When I got given it, the top was split, all the joints were lose and the finish was virtually non-existant and stained in several places. The wheels were ceramic but obviously in need of lubrication. I suspect it had been left outdoors or in a leaky shed for some time. So the process went as follows: 1. Unscrew and ease apart the split top and the loose joints using one or two large chisels - discovered that they had originally all been strengthened with dowel and some of it got splintered in the process. No matter, Wickes sell various sizes of dowel for reasonable prices. Whatever glue was originally used I know not, only small traces remained. So pick up some proper wood glue when getting the dowel (not that overpriced Gorilla polyurethane rubbish).
2. Check that all the joints will fit back together tightly with a "dry run". Well no the split top will go but not without a 2.5 mm gap in the middle. I guess it was OK when first made but has warped. As it happens only one of the planks was "bent" so I drew an straight line from end to end and judiciously used my electric plane to straighten the "bent" edge.
3. Next paint glue onto all the joint surfaces and clamp the joints together until the glue is set hard - usually takes around 8 hours but it is proper "resin" wood glue so very strong.
4. Now for some real work - I set to sanding off what remains of the old finish down to bare wood using 120 grit paper and my B & D rotary tool to get into the awkward spots. This is laborious but essential to achieve the finish I want.
5. The finish I want is done with Colron Danish oil of the colour approved by HID - four coats and a light rub down after the first coat with 240 grit in order to remove any small rough spots.I will attach a picture to morrow.
2. Check that all the joints will fit back together tightly with a "dry run". Well no the split top will go but not without a 2.5 mm gap in the middle. I guess it was OK when first made but has warped. As it happens only one of the planks was "bent" so I drew an straight line from end to end and judiciously used my electric plane to straighten the "bent" edge.
3. Next paint glue onto all the joint surfaces and clamp the joints together until the glue is set hard - usually takes around 8 hours but it is proper "resin" wood glue so very strong.
4. Now for some real work - I set to sanding off what remains of the old finish down to bare wood using 120 grit paper and my B & D rotary tool to get into the awkward spots. This is laborious but essential to achieve the finish I want.
5. The finish I want is done with Colron Danish oil of the colour approved by HID - four coats and a light rub down after the first coat with 240 grit in order to remove any small rough spots.I will attach a picture to morrow.
