Ridge tiles

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Having never built anything before I decided to build a new house by myself . However after the wife had her say I decided to scale down my plans and opted to build a new garage instead . but to make things more difficult I decided to build it around the existing metal garage as I can’t remove it until the new garage is close to finished as I’ve got a car in the process of being restored in it along with lots of tools etc .


Anyway it’s going well but squaring it off and finding the levels was a bitch but it looks quite good so far ,bricklaying isn’t as hard as I thought it would be .

I will soon be getting to the roof after I’ve built the gables which will be built and tiled by myself and I heard ridge tiles can no longer be cemented downand must be dry fixed . Is that true and if so is it the case for all buildings or only those which are lived in . Do I need to do it on a garage
 

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If under building regs follow the spec.
If no inspection and no building regs do what you want.
If you are under building control give them a call today and ask. Even if not and you want to know they are good for helpful advice.
 
Dry ridge is easy. Have a look at the manthorpe version which is decent. Basically, it has brackets which fit to the trusses and support a ridge batten. A membrane strip is placed along that, and then the ridge tiles fixed with plastic and stainless clips with stainless screws. Easy, quick, why wouldn't you?

I presume you are using trusses for the roof?
 
If the standard applies, then the requirement is for mechanical fixing in addition to mortar, so dry-fix is not a requirement.

If building regulations do apply (ie the garage is attached) then whilst you would be expected to follow BS 5534:2014, this is rarely checked - although some eagle-eyed inspectors will look for the tell-tale signs of a dry-fix system.

However, if you are to rely on or benefit from the manufacturer's warranty, then you will be expected to have fitted the ridge and all the tiles in accordance with BS 5534:2014
 
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Cool ,thank you all.

I don’t really want to mechanically fix them as I also don’t like the look even though it seems an easier way to install especially as it’s still a challenge keeping brick faces etc mortar free .

Next question if I may . The garage is 6 meters long and I want the roof ,the first 2 meters where you drive in open for raising engines etc ,I think you call it vaulted and the 2nd part floor boarded for storage .

As that will mean no joists spanning the width to the wall plate preventing outward push on the walls over the first two meters I plan to set the ridge beam into the inner leaf of the gables . Apart from the roof and ridge beam sagging which I will sort out with vertical supports over the 2nd 4 meters Is there anything else I need to consider support wise.

Also is c16 good enough or do i need c24

Roofing it seems is more of a structural headache to work out than brick work which only really requires lots of measuring ,vertical plumbing and checking of levels as you go.
 
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Look into "raised tie trusses" for additional height clearance.

When bedding ridge tiles on mortar, it's useful to make up a wooden inverted cradle, with edges along the ridge which will allow you to place strips of mortar, and be held in place, without slipping down the slope of the roof.
This inverted cradle allows you to pas the ridge tile through and under, to be placed on the mortar bed.

I'll see if I can find an example on Youtube

This is kind of what I meant, bit I made mine deeper/higher to allow the passage of the ridge tiles through and under the guide, and then seating on the mortar bed.

The guide is then lifted and replaced for the next tile.
 
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Well I think it looks fine on the garage I built last year. Dry ridge and dry verge systems work for me.
It does.

I suppose I should have said "can look crap"

Slates and flat tiles always look nicer than profiled tiles with their gaps and wavy flashing, but there are always those knobbly bits of plastic sticking out of the ridge joints.
 
It does.

I suppose I should have said "can look crap"

Slates and flat tiles always look nicer than profiled tiles with their gaps and wavy flashing, but there are always those knobbly bits of plastic sticking out of the ridge joints.
It's the mechanical fixing (and not the reliance of mortar on a flexing timber structure) that did it for me. That and the fact we can fix dry units all year round as opposed to wet work. I'm only a recent convert though.
 

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