Roof Insulation

pfk

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I have a large 3-storey property. It is centrally heated, but the top floor Which was formerly a loft space but has been converted into bed/living rooms loses heat so quickly that when the thermostat switches the heating off downstairs this this living space almost instantly becomes cold again. I have to bump up the thermostat accordingly to keep the heat at the top and it is costing a fortune!

The problem is that there is no loft space above the ceilings, all of which also slope. There is no access to whatever roof space exists at present. Everybody I have asked so far cannot offer me a solution to how I can insulate this roof - economically or otherwise.

has anyone any suggestion as to what may be possible and who can do the work? Would there be a possibility of a grant (should there be a solution) for an OAP?
 
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What age was the conversion and is there any insulation in there at all? There are two basic solutions that spring to mind;

The first is to remove the existing plasterboard (assuming its not lathe & plaster!) and insert a rigid foam insulation insulation and then fit new plasterboard beneath.

Alternatively you could add a layer of rigid foam insulation beneath your existing plasterboard and then add a layer of plasterboard beneath that.

The second option will likely be cheaper.

There are grants available for adding insulation but as far as I know they are usually only suited to either adding blown in cavity wall insulation or adding mineral wool type insulation to a (normal) loft floor rather than a sloping ceiling. You could try here http://www.government-grants.co.uk/index.shtml or contact your energy suppliers. There may be some mileage in seeing if you can get a contribution towards paying for the supply of some of the insulation for one of the above solutions although you would need to carry out the work yourself or have it paid to be undertaken. If you get the work done by a someone a general builder will be fine or a handyman would probably be ok and please get at least three quotes and please post back before you commit to anything.
 
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Unfortunately, because the house was built in the 1920s, it is lathe and plaster. The sloping ceilings will undoubtedly make rigid insulation and plasaterboard difficult if not impossible though. Would making a hole and blowing in cavity wall insulation work or something similar do you think?
 
Why do you say it will be impossible? It will be a pain for someone to have to locate the existing rafters in order to fix into them through the insulation board and plasterboard but not impossible. Getting insulation blown in is a no-no, it will just leak out of every tiny hole it can and will probably leak out quicker than it can be blown in.
 
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Thanks again! I feel reassured and confident now to take immediate steps armed with your recommendations.
 
Hi

Use a sandwich board, something like Celotex PL3000 and stick it on dabs directly to the existing ceiling and walls and add some mechanical (screw) fixings to each board so you sleep well at night in the knowledge that the boards are not going to fall off!

Thickness of insulation will more than likely depend on how much space you can afford to lose! Ideally you would want around 80-100mm but 50mm of insulation will give you some pretty good improvement in reduced heat loss, and if a push comes to a shove even 25mm of insulation would be better than nothing at all - you will need to add the thickness of the plasterboard to these figures.

Regards
 
Very helpful information. I feel much better equipped now to proceed. Thanks a million.
 
im in similar situation, my top floor has nothing between lath n plaster and slate roof, should i re point the slate roof from inside before applying kingsspan and plaster?? how do u reccomened tri iso or super quilt in this situation also, as i heard that these foil insulation methods only work with certain roof conditions i.e the tiles has felt under neath??

using 50 mm of kingspan also buggers me on my doors and windows as with plaster on top is best part of 65 mm n my door arcitrive only sticks out 20mm. will i have to bead it off??? dont really want new frames.

hope u can help
 

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