Router finger bit - why so expensive ?

[PhilipClarke]

Can anyone recommend one, it's something I've always wanted to try out, yet I find that looking around the router kits don't include them and the ones sold singly are the same price as a kit one. I understand they work almost purely on the end grain but surely there can't be that much of a difference ? I assume they need a very fast router too, but then I and also a little confused about that as when I drill wood, the faster the setting the more frequently the burn marks. (yes I'm a newbie, but my father owned a hardwood triple glazing factory and I've always like the feel of working with wood and I'd like a hobby).

Philip.

 

[big-all]

do you mean one off these
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/p...sid=&search_text=finger+join+cutter&submit=Go

 

[PhilipClarke]

Yes that would be the one, the one that allows wood to be joined at 180 degrees and is commonly used for joining blocks together.

 

[big-all]

you don't actually need a fast router you need a slow but powerful or to be accurate slow on hardwood or fast on softwood
would suggest a 1800 1/2 inch
why not go for a biscuit cutter and biscuits

 

[PhilipClarke]

Well I want to start this as a hobby, and I like the zig zag look of the join from the side, I also thought it would be relatively simple to use a bit like that, e.g. go down one side, turn over a piece or wood of equal thickness and go down the opposite, and then glue them together, as opposed to cutting channels that would need to be accurately aligned to X amount. I seriously thought that I would start just joining the wood together and then find a use for it afterwards, this would be more along the lines of learning new skills for fun rather than having a specific project in mind at the moment.

 

[big-all]

you need to accurately aline the finger cutter
also if your bits off wood are different thickness you will have steps
its far more accurate to buiscuit /dowel/ slot and ply strips from the face or face edge as the depth will be constant

 

[Norcon]

also if your bits off wood are different thickness you will have steps

But if you use biscuit joints on wood with differing depths you will still have steps.

One joint method over another will not "thickness" the material to the correct dimension.

 

[big-all]

also if your bits off wood are different thickness you will have steps

But if you use biscuit joints on wood with differing depths you will still have steps.

One joint method over another will not "thickness" the material to the correct dimension.

they will all be on the back as you work from the face
where as with a finger joint they will alternate unless you cut them in batches the same thickness